KITCHENS

Fit a fold-down breakfast bar to a timber stud wall

Fit a fold-down breakfast bar securely into timber stud centres, with fixings and steps for other wall types too.

BB-01Plan the height and check the bracket's weight ratingDecide on the bar height, usually 900-1050mm from the floor to match a worktop. Check the fold-down bracket packaging for its rated load in kg and make sure it's rated for the bar's full open weight plus anything you'll rest on it. Mark your planned height lightly on the wall with a pencil.
1 each · Fold-down breakfast bar bracket set
1 each · Tape measure
1 each · Pencil
BB-02Find and mark the stud centresRun a stud detector along the wall, or track a line of screw heads with a magnet, to find at least two stud centres where the bracket needs to sit. Tap the wall too: a dull sound between studs and a firmer sound over a stud helps confirm position. A small pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot brings out pale timber dust if it's a timber stud, or fine grey swarf if it's metal.
1 each · Stud detector
1 each · Small magnet
BB-03Check for cables and pipes, and know how to shut things offCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the usual safe zones near sockets. Sweep a detector over every fixing point, but still treat each hole as if something could be there, because deep cables, metal conduit and metal stud frames all confuse cheap detectors. Find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns before you start. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the nearby circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could hide a pipe.
BB-04Choose the right fixing for your wall typeFor a timber stud wall, fix directly into the centre of each stud with heavy-duty wood screws or coach screws, going in at least 40mm. If you actually have metal studs, a plain wood screw will strip straight through 0.5mm steel: use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a hollow-wall toggle rated for the wall, but know that a fold-down bar pulls away from the wall in use, so metal studs alone won't hold it long term. Fit a timber noggin between the studs first and fix into that instead. On solid brick or block, drill with a 10mm masonry bit to at least 50mm depth and use a matching plug with a coach screw. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, your fixing must cross the air gap behind the board, typically 30-50mm, and still get 40mm or more into the masonry, so use a longer fixing or a frame fixing sold for dot-and-dab. On lath and plaster, screws into laths alone won't hold: find the timber upright behind the laths the same way as a stud, and fix into that, expecting the surrounding plaster to be fragile.
8 each · Coach screws M8x80mm
4 each · Self-drilling metal stud fixings
4 each · Hollow wall toggle fixings
4 each · Rawlplugs 10mm
4 each · Long frame fixings for dot-and-dab, M8x100mm
BB-05Fit a timber noggin if the studs don't line up with the bracketIf the bracket's fixing holes don't fall on stud centres, cut a small section of plasterboard out with a padsaw between two studs at bracket height. Screw a 44x34mm timber noggin horizontally between the studs, fixed through the stud sides into each end. Patch the plasterboard cut-out and let the filler dry before you continue.
1 length · CLS timber noggin, 44x34mm
1 each · Plasterboard offcut
8 each · Drywall screws
1 tub · Multi-purpose filler
BB-06Mark and drill the fixing holesHold the wall bracket level against your marked height using a spirit level, then mark the fixing holes through it onto the stud or noggin centres. Drill pilot holes into timber about 3mm smaller than the screw shank, going just short of the screw's length so it doesn't split the wood.
1 each · Spirit level
1 each · Wood drill bit, 3mm
BB-07Fix the wall bracket to the studsScrew the bracket firmly into each stud or noggin with the coach screws or heavy-duty wood screws, driving each one fully home into the centre of the timber. Check the bracket is still level once tightened, then give it a firm pull test before moving on.
8 each · Heavy-duty wood screws, 5x60mm
BB-08Attach the folding legs to the bar topFollowing the kit's instructions, fix the folding leg brackets to the underside of the bar top, keeping them square and evenly spaced in from each end. Offer the bar up to the wall bracket and connect the hinge or bracket joint as directed.
BB-09Test the fold action and check it's levelFold the bar down and back up a few times to check the hinge moves smoothly and the legs open fully and lock. Rest a spirit level across the top when it's open, and pack or adjust the wall bracket slightly if it's out.
BB-10Load test before you trust itWith the bar folded open, push down firmly on the outer edge and check for any movement, creaking or flex at the fixings. Leave a moderate weight on it for a few minutes before using it properly.
BB-11Patch, tidy up and finishSand any noggin or plasterboard repairs smooth once the filler is fully dry, then touch up with paint if needed. Wipe down dust, sweep or vacuum the floor, and dispose of any offcuts.
1 sheet · Fine sandpaper

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