KITCHENS

Fit a fold-down breakfast bar to a lath and plaster wall

Fit a fold-down breakfast bar to a lath and plaster wall by finding and fixing into the timber studs behind, not the fragile plaster surface.

BB-01Clear the area and gather your toolsClear worktop space below the fixing line and move furniture out of the way. Lay a dust sheet on the floor to catch old plaster dust and debris. Get your tools together before you start: a combined cable, pipe and stud detector, spirit level, tape measure, pencil, drill with wood bits, dust mask and safety glasses.
1 each · Dust sheet
1 each · Combined cable/pipe/stud detector
1 each · Spirit level (600mm)
1 each · Tape measure
1 pair · Dust mask and safety glasses
BB-02Work out where the timber studs are behind the lath and plasterLath and plaster walls are thin wood strips (laths) nailed to timber studs, with plaster keyed through the gaps. Studs are often spaced irregularly in older houses, anywhere from 300mm to 450mm apart, so don't assume even spacing. Run your stud detector along the wall and confirm with a gentle knuckle-knock: a dull, firm sound means solid timber behind, a hollow rattle means you're between studs.
BB-03Locate cables and pipes, and know how to isolate themCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in an old wall, not just in the usual safe zones. Sweep the full fixing line with your detector, but still treat the wall as if something's there anyway. Detectors miss cables that are deep, boxed in metal conduit, or run at odd angles, which is common in lath and plaster walls with older rewiring.
BB-04Before you drill, find your stopcock and check it worksFind your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and turn it to check it moves freely. That way, if you hit a pipe, you can shut the water off in seconds instead of searching for it with water spraying. If you have any doubt at all about what's behind the wall, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before you drill.
BB-05Mark the height and level the fixing lineDecide on bar height, typically 900mm to 1050mm from the floor for standing use, and mark it with a pencil. Use your spirit level to draw a level horizontal line across the wall for the bracket plate. Mark the fixing hole centres against this line, matching the spacing given in your bracket's instructions, usually 300mm to 400mm apart.
1 each · Pencil
BB-06Choose the right fixing for your wall typeThis job assumes lath and plaster, where you must fix into the timber studs behind, not just the crumbly plaster surface, which will pull away under the leverage of a folding bar. If your wall is solid brick or block, drill an 8mm hole and use a heavy-duty plug with a coach screw at least 40mm into the masonry. On plasterboard over timber studs, a 5x60mm wood screw driven into the centre of the stud is enough. On plasterboard over metal studs, never use a plain plug or wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel; use a self-drilling metal-stud screw or toggle-type hollow-wall anchor, and be aware metal studs alone won't take a folding bar's leverage without a timber noggin or pattress. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a long fixing, 60-75mm, that passes through the board's air gap into the masonry behind.
4 each · Heavy-duty wood screws (6x75mm)
4 each · Coach screws (M8x80mm)
4 each · Heavy-duty wall plugs (10mm)
4 each · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchors
BB-07Drill test holes to confirm the stud positionDrill a small 3mm pilot hole at each marked hole position, going slowly through the plaster and lath. Fine timber dust and firm resistance confirms you've hit a stud. Crumbly plaster with no resistance, or the drill dropping into a gap, means you've missed the stud and need to shift the hole or add a backing batten.
1 each · 3mm wood drill bit
BB-08Fit a plywood backing batten if the studs don't line up with your bracketIf the bracket's fixing holes don't land on studs, screw an 18mm marine plywood batten flat against the wall, spanning at least two studs across the full width of the bracket. Fix the batten with 5x60mm wood screws driven into stud centres, then fix the bracket to the batten instead of directly to the wall. This spreads the folding bar's load safely without opening up the plaster.
1 each · Marine plywood batten (18mm x 150mm x 600mm)
6 each · Wood screws (5x60mm)
BB-09Fix the bracket plate to the wallLine the bracket plate up on your marked, levelled holes and drive the chosen fixings home, checking each one bites into solid timber and tightens fully rather than spinning loosely. Recheck the plate with your spirit level before moving on, since a bracket fixed slightly out of level will show once the bar is folded down.
BB-10Mount the breakfast bar top and folding legsAttach the worktop to the wall bracket following the kit's instructions, then fit the folding leg or support brackets to the underside. Check the hinge or fold mechanism moves smoothly before loading it with anything.
1 each · Fold-down breakfast bar bracket and worktop kit
BB-11Test the fold and check the loadFold the bar up and down a few times to check the mechanism runs freely and the bracket stays put. Load it gradually, starting light and building up to normal use weight, watching for any movement, creaking or the wall flexing at the fixing points. Retighten any screws that have worked loose.
BB-12Patch, tidy up and dispose of wasteFill any gaps around the batten edges or old test holes with multi-purpose filler, let it dry, then sand smooth and touch up with matching paint. Vacuum up plaster dust, wipe down surfaces, and bag up offcuts and debris for the bin. Put your tools away and remove the dust sheet.
1 each · Multi-purpose filler (small tub)
1 sheet · Sandpaper (fine grit)
1 each · Rubble/waste sack

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