HANGING & WALL MOUNTING

Fit a fold-down wall desk to a metal stud wall

Fit a fold-down desk securely on a metal stud wall, adding backing so the hinge fixing doesn't pull loose.

WD-01Unpack the kit and gather your toolsUnpack the fold-down desk kit and check it against the fitting instructions - count screws, brackets, hinges and legs before you start. Lay out your tools: drill/driver, spirit level, tape measure, pencil, and a detector. Clear the floor below the fixing point and lay a dust sheet down, especially if the wall turns out to be solid brick or block.
1 each · Fold-down desk kit
1 each · Spirit level 600mm
1 each · Tape measure
1 each · Dust sheet
WD-02Confirm what your wall and studs are made ofRun a detector along the wall and find the stud centres by tracking a line of screw or nail heads under the paint - studs are usually 400mm or 600mm apart. Drill a 3mm test hole into what you think is a stud: timber gives pale wood dust and some resistance, metal gives fine grey swarf and drills easily, and a springy, hollow, faintly crackling wall is usually lath and plaster over timber studs in an older house. A dull, solid knock everywhere with no give at all is solid brick or block; if it sounds hollow but a longer masonry bit finds 20-50mm of air gap before hitting something solid, that's dot-and-dab plasterboard on masonry behind. Write down which one you've got - it decides the fixing you use for the rest of the job.
1 each · Stud/cable/pipe detector
1 each · 3mm drill bit
WD-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the usual safe zones, and a metal stud frame confuses cheap detectors even more. Sweep the fixing area with your detector, but still assume something could be behind the wall until you've proved otherwise. Before drilling, find your stopcock - usually under the kitchen sink - and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.
WD-04Mark the desk height and stud positionsHold the desk's mounting rail against the wall at a comfortable height - normally 730-750mm from the floor to the desktop when folded down - and check it's level with a spirit level. Mark the rail's fixing hole positions on the wall in pencil. Use your findings from Step WD-02 to mark exactly where each stud centre falls along that line, so you can adjust the rail position if it doesn't land on solid backing.
1 each · Pencil
WD-05Fit reinforcement for your wall typeA fold-down desk pulls away from the wall every time you lower it, so metal studs alone - even with the right hollow-wall toggles - are not strong enough on their own. On a metal stud wall, cut an 18mm plywood pattress about 600 x 150mm, hold it over at least two stud centres, and fix it through the plasterboard into both studs with self-drilling metal-stud screws every 100mm. On a timber stud wall, fit the same pattress with coarse-thread wood screws biting at least 30mm into the studs, or fit a timber noggin between the studs if you're happy to open the board. On solid brick or block you can skip the pattress and fix straight into the wall with the correct plugs; on dot-and-dab you must use fixings long enough to pass through the plasterboard and adhesive dabs and still bite properly into the masonry behind, since a plug fixed only into the plasterboard will pull straight out; on lath and plaster, never rely on the plaster itself - locate the timber studs behind the laths and screw into solid timber.
1 each · 18mm plywood pattress (600 x 150mm)
1 pack · Self-drilling metal stud screws 38mm
1 pack · Coarse-thread wood screws 40mm
1 each · Timber noggin 38 x 63mm CLS, 600mm length
1 pack · Heavy-duty masonry wall plugs
1 pack · Long frame fixings for dot-and-dab (M6 x 100mm)
WD-06Fix the mounting rail to the wallOffer the desk's mounting rail up to the wall, level it again, and mark through the rail's fixing holes onto your pattress, stud, or masonry. Drill pilot holes sized to match your fixing - 3mm into timber, a slightly undersized bit into ply, or the size stated on the packet for masonry plugs. Screw the rail on firmly, checking it stays level as you tighten each fixing, and don't fully tighten any one screw until all of them are started.
1 pack · Fixing screws to match rail holes
WD-07Attach the desk frame and folding legsHang the desk frame onto the fitted rail following the kit's instructions - most simply hook or slide into place. Fit the folding support legs or struts to the underside of the desktop, making sure any pivot bolts are fully tightened. Check the desk folds down and up smoothly without catching on the wall or skirting.
WD-08Test the fixing under full loadFold the desk down fully and press down firmly on the front edge to check the wall fixing holds without flexing or creaking. Load the desk with the weight you actually plan to use - laptop, monitor, books - and check it stays level and secure after a few minutes. If you see any movement at the wall, stop using it and add extra fixings or a bigger pattress before relying on it.
WD-09Finish and tidy upFill any oversized or missed pilot holes with a little decorator's caulk or filler and touch up the paint once it's dry. Vacuum up drilling dust and swarf, especially metal filings if you drilled into steel studs, since they can rust and mark paintwork. Put spare fixings somewhere safe in case you need to adjust the desk later.
1 tube · Decorator's caulk
1 tub · Filler
1 each · Fine paintbrush

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