Fit a fold-out wall drying rack to a timber stud wall

Fit a fold-out drying rack safely, with the right fixing for whatever is behind your wall.

WD-01Choose the spot and get readyPick a wall near good airflow, such as in a utility room, bathroom or kitchen. Check the rack has room to fold fully open without hitting a door, worktop or bath. Lay a dust sheet, then get your drill, spirit level, pencil and tape measure ready.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Tape measure

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WD-02Work out what your wall is made ofTap the wall. A dull, solid sound usually means brick, block or dot-and-dab plasterboard. A hollow sound means a stud wall or lath and plaster. Run a stud detector along the wall to find upright studs, and check for a line of screw heads under the paint using a magnet or your fingers. If you find a line of screws roughly every 300-600mm, drill a small 2-3mm pilot hole into one: fine wood dust means a timber stud, fine grey metal swarf means a metal stud.

1 each · Stud detector

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1 each · Small magnet

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WD-03Mark your fixing points and check them for levelHold the rack's wall bracket against the wall at your chosen height, usually around 1400-1600mm up so it clears worktops or a bath rim when open. Mark the screw holes through the bracket. Do this for both brackets, then use a spirit level to make sure the marks line up horizontally before you drill anything.

1 each · Spirit level

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WD-04Check for cables and pipes, and know how to shut things offCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the usual safe zones, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector. Run a detector over every mark, then still drill carefully and stop the moment you feel resistance change or see anything unexpected. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit first, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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WD-05Fix the first bracket, using the right fixing for your wallOn a timber stud, drill a 3mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud and drive in a 60mm wood screw. On a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal stud fixing or a toggle rated for the load, but be aware a drying rack pulls on the wall every time it's opened and closed with wet washing on it - a metal stud fixing alone is not enough for this. Fit a timber noggin between the studs first, or fix through to solid masonry behind if there is any. On solid brick or block, drill with an 8mm masonry bit, insert a wall plug, and drive in a 60mm screw so the plug sits fully in the hole. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing at least 75-90mm long to pass through the plasterboard and adhesive dabs and bite into the solid wall behind. On lath and plaster, find the timber stud behind the laths as you would a timber stud wall, then use a longer screw so it passes through the lath and plaster and still gets a good grip in the timber.

4 each · Wood screws 60mm

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4 each · Self-drilling metal stud fixings or toggles

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1 each · Timber noggin offcut (38x50mm)

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4 each · Red masonry wall plugs

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1 each · Drill with masonry and wood bits

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WD-06Fix the second bracketRepeat the same fixing method for the second bracket, using the same wall construction you identified earlier. Hold the spirit level across both brackets before fully tightening the screws, and adjust if either bracket has crept out of line.

WD-07Fit the rack and test it under loadHang the rack arms onto the brackets following the manufacturer's fitting instructions. Fold it fully open, drape a damp towel over each arm, and check the fixings hold firm with no movement, creaking or the bracket pulling away from the wall. Fold it closed again to check it operates smoothly.

WD-08Tidy upSweep or vacuum up any dust and offcuts, especially masonry dust, and wipe down the wall. Fold up the dust sheet and put your tools away.

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