HANGING & WALL MOUNTING

Fit a coat rack to a timber stud wall

Fit a coat rack securely into a timber stud wall, with the right fixing if you find metal studs, masonry, dot-and-dab or lath and plaster instead.

CR-01Gather your tools and decide the heightLay out a drill/driver, a 3mm bit for pilot holes, a spirit level, tape measure, pencil and a stud detector. Most coat racks sit well at around 1500mm from the floor, but check nothing above it (a shelf, a light switch) gets in the way. Open the pack and check what fixings are included — many coat racks come with basic screws only, which aren't right for every wall.
1 each · Coat rack with hooks
1 each · Tape measure
1 each · Spirit level
1 each · Cordless drill/driver
1 each · Cable and stud detector
CR-02Work out what's actually behind the wallRun a detector across the area where you want to fix, then confirm with a magnet or by tapping — solid masonry sounds dead and firm all over, while a stud wall sounds hollow between the studs and firm on them. A small pilot hole in a stud brings out pale timber dust; a metal stud brings out fine grey swarf and feels different to drill. This job assumes timber studs behind plasterboard — if you find metal studs, solid brick or block, dot-and-dab plasterboard, or the springy, uneven feel of lath and plaster instead, the fixing changes and that's covered in step CR-05.
CR-03Mark the fixing points and level the lineTimber studs are usually spaced at 400mm or 600mm centres — mark where you've found them with a pencil dot. Hold the coat rack up at your chosen height, check it's level with a spirit level, and mark through its fixing holes onto the wall. Aim for at least two fixing points landing on studs; if the rack is long, a middle point may fall on plasterboard alone.
1 each · Pencil
CR-04Check for cables and pipes, then drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector further, so scan the marked points and still treat the wall as if something could be there. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe — if there's any real doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit first and turn off the water before drilling. Drill a 3mm pilot hole at each mark going into the stud, stopping once you're through the plasterboard and a short way into the timber.
1 each · 3mm wood drill bit
CR-05Use the right fixing for your wallInto a timber stud, drive a 4x50mm wood screw straight into the pilot hole and into the centre of the timber — never use a plastic wall plug here, it isn't needed and won't help. If a fixing point falls on plasterboard between studs, use a toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for the coat rack's loaded weight, since a full rack of wet coats pulls outward as it's used. If you found metal studs in step CR-02, use a self-drilling or toggle-type metal-stud fixing, never a wood screw or plastic plug, as it will strip straight through 0.5mm steel — and for anything heavier or pulled on hard, fit a timber noggin between the studs first. For solid brick or block, drill a 6mm hole to 40mm depth and use a matching wall plug and screw; for dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing long enough to pass through the dab and reach at least 25mm into the masonry behind.
1 pack · Wood screws 4x50mm (pack of 10)
1 pack · Plasterboard toggle fixings (pack)
1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings (pack)
1 pack · Wall plugs for masonry (pack)
1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit
CR-06Mount the rack and check it's secureOffer the coat rack up to the wall and drive the screws home through each fixing point, checking it stays level as you go. Don't overtighten — plasterboard fixings can crush if forced. Give the rack a firm push and pull by hand to check nothing moves before you trust it with coats.
CR-07Test the load and tidy upHang a couple of heavy coats on it and leave it for a few minutes to check the fixings hold without the rack dropping or the wall flexing. Vacuum up any plaster or timber dust from the floor and wipe down the wall. If any pilot holes are visible around the fixings, dab a little filler over them once the rack is confirmed secure.
1 each · Filler (small tube)
1 each · Dust sheet

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