Fit a fold-out wall drying rack to a lath and plaster wall — HomeGraft

Fit a fold-out drying rack safely into a lath and plaster wall, finding the stud and using the right screws throughout.

WDR-01Plan the height and positionFold-out drying racks usually work best mounted 1400-1600mm above the floor, so arms clear worktops and door frames when open. Fully open the rack (or check the box) and measure its open width against your wall, checking it clears any door swing, light switch or window. Avoid positions directly above a boiler flue or where a stopcock pipe run might be.

1 each · Tape measure

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WDR-02Mark and level the fixing pointsHold the rack's mounting bracket against the wall at your chosen height. Use a spirit level to get it dead level, then mark each screw hole through the bracket with a pencil. Check both brackets line up level with each other before you drill anything.

1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Pencil

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WDR-03Confirm your wall type and find the studsLath and plaster walls have timber studs behind narrow wooden laths, under about 15-20mm of horsehair plaster. Tap gently near your marks: a dull thud usually means a stud, a hollow knock means a gap between laths. A stud detector can help, but nails in the laths sometimes give false readings, so also look for a vertical line of old nail or screw heads where plaster has chipped, which often marks a stud edge. If your wall turns out to be plasterboard, brick, block or dot-and-dab instead, the drilling and fixing method changes - see the fixing step below for your type.

1 each · Stud detector

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WDR-04Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, and old lath and plaster walls can also hide wiring stapled straight to the laths. Run a cable and pipe detector over every mark, but still treat the wall as if something is there even if it reads clear - detectors miss deep cables, armoured cable and anything behind metal-backed plasterboard. Find your stopcock first, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, turn off the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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WDR-05Fit a timber batten if no stud lines upIf your marked holes don't land on a stud, or land on different studs at slightly different heights, screw a timber batten horizontally across at least two studs first. Fix the rack bracket to the batten rather than the bare lath and plaster - this spreads the pulling weight of wet washing into the timber frame instead of the brittle plaster. Drill a 3mm pilot hole through the plaster and lath before driving each screw, so the plaster doesn't crack.

1 each · Timber batten 25x50x600mm

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4 each · Wood screws 75mm

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WDR-06Drill and fit the correct fixing for your wallFor lath and plaster (or the batten you've fitted): drill a 3mm pilot hole through the plaster and lath into the timber, then drive a 50-65mm zinc-plated wood screw into the centre of the stud or batten - don't rely on a wall plug in the plaster, it will crumble. For solid brick or block: drill an 8mm hole at least 40mm deep, fit a red wall plug, and use a 50mm screw. For plasterboard on timber studs: screw straight into the stud centre, or use a plasterboard toggle fixing rated for at least 5kg between studs. For plasterboard on metal studs: use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or metal-stud toggle - never a wood screw or plastic plug, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel - and fit a timber noggin between the studs first if the bracket doesn't land on one, since wet washing pulls the fixing away from the wall as it dries. For dot-and-dab plasterboard: use a 60-75mm frame fixing that passes through the plasterboard and the dab gap to bite at least 30mm into the solid masonry behind - a short fixing only grips the dab and will pull straight out.

4 each · Wood screws 50-65mm

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4 each · Red wall plugs

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1 each · Masonry drill bit 8mm

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2 each · Metal-stud toggle fixing

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4 each · Frame fixing 75mm

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WDR-07Screw the brackets to the wallWith the fixings in place, screw each bracket home fully, checking with the spirit level again that both sides are still level. Don't overtighten screws into lath and plaster - stop as soon as the bracket sits flush, so you don't crack the plaster around the hole.

1 each · Cordless drill driver

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WDR-08Fit the rack arms and test under loadClip or bolt the fold-out arms onto the wall brackets as per the manufacturer's instructions. Fully extend the rack and hang a few damp towels on it to check the fixing holds firmly with no movement or cracking around the screws. Fold it away and open it again to make sure it moves smoothly.

WDR-09Tidy upBrush away plaster dust and vacuum the floor below the fixing. Fill any small chips around the screws with a dab of matching filler and touch up with paint once it's dry.

1 each · Filler small tub

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1 sheet · Fine sandpaper

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1 each · Matching paint (touch-up)

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