Fit a net curtain wire to a metal stud wall

Fit a net curtain wire safely, checking your wall type first and choosing the fixing that matches it before you drill.

NC-01Gather your tools and kitGet everything ready before you start: net curtain wire kit (eyelets, wire and tensioner), tape measure, pencil, spirit level, power drill with masonry, wood and metal bits, a screwdriver, and a cable/pipe detector. Lay a dust sheet under your work area. Having the right bit for your wall type to hand saves stopping halfway through.

1 each · Net curtain wire kit (eyelets, wire, tensioner)

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1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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1 each · Mixed drill bit set (masonry, wood, metal)

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1 each · Spirit level

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NC-02Mark the fixing pointsHold an eyelet against the window reveal at the height you want the wire, about 20mm in from the frame edge. Mark both sides with a pencil, then use a spirit level to check the two marks line up. Getting this level now saves an uneven wire later.

NC-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillRun your detector over both marked spots before you touch the drill. Cables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the usual safe zones, and detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed plasterboard — so treat the detector as a warning, not a guarantee. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and know where the stopcock is in case you hit a pipe.

NC-04Work out what's behind the plasterReveals around windows can be solid masonry, plasterboard on studs, or old lath and plaster, so check before you commit to a fixing. Tap along the wall — a dull thud means solid material, a hollow sound means a void behind plasterboard. Run a magnet or stud detector across the area: a line of screw heads and a hollow sound with resistance every 400-600mm suggests studs; drill a small pilot hole and check the dust — pale wood dust means timber, fine grey swarf means a metal stud track.

NC-05Fix into solid brick or blockDrill a 5mm hole to 35mm depth using a masonry bit, on a slow speed with hammer action. Push in a matching wall plug until it's flush, then drive the eyelet screw into the plug by hand. This is the strongest option and takes very little load from a curtain wire.

1 pack · Rawlplug wall plugs, 5mm (pack of 10)

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NC-06Fix into a timber studDrill a 2mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud, deep enough to take most of the screw length. Drive the eyelet screw straight in with a screwdriver — no plug needed, timber holds a wood screw well on its own. Keep the screw centred so it doesn't split the edge of the stud.

1 pack · No.8 wood screws, 40mm (pack of 10)

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NC-07Fix into a metal studNever use a plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw here — they strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the weight, driven with a screwdriver or low-speed drill. A curtain wire is light and pulls sideways rather than outwards, so a metal stud handles it fine — this is different from something heavy or something that pulls away from the wall, which needs a noggin behind it instead.

1 pack · Self-drilling metal stud fixings (pack of 4)

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NC-08Fix into dot-and-dab plasterboardThere's usually a 20-50mm gap of air behind dot-and-dab board before you reach the masonry. Use a long fixing, 60-75mm, that passes through the board and bites into the masonry behind, or a toggle fixing rated for plasterboard alone if you can't reach the wall. Drill slowly and stop the moment the bit breaks through the board so you don't punch straight through into the void.

1 pack · Long fixings for dot-and-dab, 60-75mm (pack of 4)

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NC-09Fix into lath and plasterOld lath and plaster is thin timber laths behind a soft, crumbly plaster coat, so it's easy to crack. Drill a small pilot hole first and feel for a lath — you want the screw to bite into the timber lath, not just the plaster. If you can't find a solid lath, use a hollow-wall fixing designed for older, softer walls and go gently to avoid cracking the surrounding plaster.

1 pack · Hollow-wall fixings for lath and plaster (pack of 4)

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NC-10Thread the wire and tension itThread the wire through both eyelets, leaving a little slack. Fit the tensioner or hook at one end and turn it to draw the wire taut, checking it stays level as you go. Trim off any excess wire with pliers or wire cutters, leaving a short tail.

1 each · Wire cutters or pliers

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NC-11Tidy up and check the finishVacuum up any drill dust or debris from the sill and floor. Hang the net curtain and check it runs smoothly along the wire without sagging. Store any leftover fixings for future use.

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