Fit a curtain pole inside a window recess in a metal stud wall

Fit curtain pole brackets inside a window recess in a metal stud wall, using the right fixing for whatever's really behind the plasterboard.

CP-01Measure the recess and choose your poleMeasure the recess width at the top, middle and bottom, as reveals are rarely perfectly square. Choose a pole 20-30mm shorter than the narrowest measurement so it sits inside the recess without touching the frame. Plan bracket positions roughly 50-70mm in from each end.

1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Curtain pole kit with brackets and rings

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CP-02Work out what the recess sides are actually made ofWindow recesses often aren't the same construction as the main wall, even when the wall itself is metal stud. Run a detector or magnet up the side of the recess looking for a regular line of screw heads at 300mm or 400mm spacings - that's a stud. Drill a small pilot hole: fine metal swarf means a steel stud, pale dust means timber, and a solid dull knock with no give means you've hit masonry or a dot-and-dab lining behind the board.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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CP-03Mark and level the bracket positionsHold each bracket against the recess side at your chosen height and mark the fixing holes through it. Use a spirit level to check both brackets are at the same height before you commit to any marks.

1 each · Spirit level 600mm

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CP-04Check for cables and pipes, and know how to isolate before you drillSweep the marked spots with a detector, but still assume there could be a cable or pipe there anyway - detectors miss cables that are deep, in conduit, or behind metal-backed board, and a metal stud frame confuses cheap detectors further. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you start. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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CP-05Fix brackets into a metal stud recessIf a bracket hole lines up with the stud itself, use a self-drilling metal-stud screw - it cuts its own thread into the 0.5mm steel. If it falls between studs, use a hollow-wall toggle fixing rated for the weight, never a plain plastic wall plug or ordinary wood screw, which will strip straight through. Curtains are heavier than they look once wet or lined, so if either bracket has no stud behind it, fit a timber noggin between the studs first or fix through to the masonry behind.

1 pack · Self-drilling metal stud screws (pack)

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1 pack · Hollow-wall toggle fixings (pack of 4)

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1 each · Cordless drill/driver

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CP-06Fix brackets if the recess is timber stud, masonry or dot-and-dabTimber stud: use a 4x40mm wood screw straight into the centre of the stud. Solid masonry: drill a 6mm hole 40mm deep, insert a wall plug, and use a 4x50mm screw. Dot-and-dab lining: use a fixing long enough to reach the masonry behind the board, usually a 7.5x100mm frame fixing or a resin anchor, as a short screw will only grip the plasterboard.

1 pack · Wood screws 4x40mm (pack)

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1 pack · Wall plugs (pack)

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1 pack · Frame fixings 7.5x100mm (pack)

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CP-07Fit the pole and check it sits levelRest the pole into both brackets and tighten any locking screws or caps. Check with the spirit level again, resting it on top of the pole, and adjust a bracket slightly if one side sits lower.

1 each · Spirit level 600mm

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CP-08Hang the curtains and test the fitThread the rings onto the pole and hang the curtains. Slide them fully open and closed, checking they clear the window frame and the sides of the recess without catching.

CP-09Tidy upVacuum drilling dust from the sill and floor, and wipe down the recess. Bin off-cuts and packaging, and keep spare fixings in a labelled bag in case you need to adjust the brackets later.

1 each · Dust sheet

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