Fit a new laminate worktop — HomeGraft

Remove your old worktop, cut the new one to size, then fit, seal and reconnect everything safely.

WT-01Turn off water, power and gas before you startFind your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and turn it off - check it actually moves now, not later when a pipe is spraying. If you have a built-in oven or hob, isolate its circuit at the consumer unit. If you have a gas hob, turn off the gas at the meter and arrange for a Gas Safe registered engineer to disconnect it before you start - never disconnect gas connections yourself.

RULES

KNOW THE RULES

Gas appliance work must be done by a Gas Safe registered engineer. This is a legal requirement, not just good practice.

WT-02Protect the kitchen and clear the spaceClear everything off the worktop and out of the base units underneath it. Lay dust sheets over the floor and units, and open a window - cutting laminate boards makes fine dust. Keep a vacuum or dustpan nearby so you can clean as you go.

2 each · Dust sheet

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1 roll · Masking tape

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WT-03Disconnect the sink, taps and any built-in hobTurn off the isolation valves under the sink, then disconnect the flexible tap connectors and the waste trap. Keep a bowl handy to catch any water left in the pipework. Only unwire a built-in hob once its circuit is isolated at the consumer unit, then lift it clear.

1 each · Adjustable spanner

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WT-04Remove the old worktopRun a sharp knife along the silicone seal where the worktop meets the wall or upstand to break the bond. Look underneath the base units and remove the screws holding the worktop to the corner brackets. Lift the worktop off in sections - it's heavy and awkward, so get a second person to help with long runs.

1 each · Utility knife

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1 each · Screwdriver

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WT-05Measure the new worktop and mark the cutsMeasure the full run needed, including the end overhang and the standard front overhang past the unit doors, usually 20-40mm. Mark the cutting line on the underside of the new worktop, and use the old worktop or the appliance's template to mark any sink or hob cutout. Check every measurement twice before you cut - laminate worktop can't be lengthened once it's short.

1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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WT-06Cut the worktop to lengthSupport the worktop fully along its length so the offcut can't drop and snap the laminate edge. Cut from the underside, decorative face down, using a fine-tooth blade so the top face doesn't chip. Run a strip of masking tape along the cut line first for a cleaner edge.

1 each · Fine-tooth circular saw blade

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1 each · New laminate worktop, 3000 x 600 x 38mm

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WT-07Cut the sink or hob apertureMark the cutout using the manufacturer's template, staying at least 50mm back from the front and back edges for strength. Drill a 10mm starter hole in each corner of the marked line, then cut along the line with a jigsaw. Sand the cut edge smooth once you're done.

1 each · Jigsaw blade, fine laminate-cutting

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1 each · Drill bit, 10mm

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1 sheet · Sandpaper, medium grit

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WT-08Scribe the back edge to fit the wallKitchen walls are rarely straight, so hold the worktop in position and run a profile gauge or compass along the wall to transfer its exact line onto the back edge. Cut along this scribed line with a jigsaw for a tight, gap-free fit against the wall. Test-fit before moving on - small gaps are far easier to sort now, with the worktop off the units.

1 each · Profile scribing tool or compass

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WT-09Seal every cut edge before fittingLaminate worktop has a chipboard or MDF core that swells if water gets in, so every cut edge - the ends, the scribed back edge and the sink or hob cutout - needs sealing. Apply worktop edge sealant, or two coats of PVA, and let it dry fully before you fit the worktop.

1 tube · Worktop edge sealant

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WT-10Join sections with worktop connector bolts (L- or U-shaped kitchens)If your kitchen has a corner, cut the joint using a worktop jig to route the biscuit and bolt slots for a flush, tight joint. Run a bead of silicone along the joint face, then fit the connector bolts and tighten a little at a time on each one so the joint pulls up square. Wipe off any squeeze-out straight away.

1 pack · Worktop connector bolts, pack of 4

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1 tube · Silicone sealant

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WT-11Fit, level and fix the worktop downLift the worktop into place on the base units and check it's level with a spirit level, adjusting the unit feet if needed. Screw up through the corner brackets or pocket blocks inside the base units into the underside of the worktop - use screws no longer than the worktop thickness minus about 5mm (typically 30mm for a standard 38mm worktop) so they can't come through the top. Check the overhang is even along the whole run before you finish tightening.

1 pack · Worktop fixing screws, 30mm, pack

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1 each · Spirit level

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WT-12Seal the wall junction and refit the sinkRun a neat bead of silicone along the join between the worktop and the wall or upstand, then smooth it with a wet finger or sealant tool. Drop the sink into its cutout, reconnect the waste trap and tap connectors, and seal under the sink rim.

1 tube · Silicone sealant

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1 tube · Sink sealant/mastic

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WT-13Reconnect services and test for leaksTurn the water back on at the stopcock and check every joint under the sink for drips before you walk away. Restore power to the hob or oven circuit at the consumer unit and test it works. If you disconnected a gas hob, wait for your Gas Safe engineer to reconnect and test it - never do this part yourself.

RULES

KNOW THE RULES

Reconnecting a gas hob must be done and certified by a Gas Safe registered engineer.

WT-14Tidy up and dispose of the old worktopVacuum up all dust and offcuts, and wipe down the new worktop and surrounding units. Most councils won't take a full worktop in a normal bin collection, so check if you need a bulky waste collection or a trip to the tip.

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