KITCHENS

Fit a worktop upstand

Cut, fit and seal a matching upstand along the back of your worktop to protect the wall from splashes.

AB-01Measure up and buy your materialsMeasure the length of worktop you need to cover, and note every internal and external corner along the run. Buy an upstand strip that matches your worktop edge trim, plus internal and external corner joints for any corners. Upstand usually comes in 3000mm lengths, so work out how many lengths you need. Also buy grab adhesive and a colour-matched silicone sealant.
2 each · Upstand strip (3m length, matching worktop)
1 each · Internal corner joint
1 each · External corner joint
1 cartridge · Grab adhesive (solvent-free, gap-filling)
1 tube · Silicone sealant (kitchen & bathroom, colour-matched)
AB-02Clear the worktop and prep the wallRemove anything sitting on the worktop near the wall, and take off any old upstand, tile trim or sealant with a filling knife. Wash the wall with sugar soap or a degreaser to remove grease and dust, then let it dry fully. A clean, dry, grease-free wall is essential — adhesive will not grip properly over old sealant or kitchen grease.
1 each · Filling knife or scraper
1 bottle · Sugar soap or degreaser
1 each · Cleaning cloth
AB-03Work out your wall type before you fix anythingTap the wall above the worktop: a dull, solid sound usually means brick or block, while a hollow sound means plasterboard on a stud frame or dot-and-dab. Run a stud detector, or a fridge magnet, along the wall to find the line of screw heads that marks a timber or metal stud — a magnet skips over screws in a timber stud but sticks firmly to a steel stud track. If you drill a small test hole, fine pale dust means timber and fine grey swarf means a metal stud. Lath and plaster walls (common in pre-1930s houses) feel slightly springy and give a lighter, more hollow knock than solid brick. Before drilling anything, remember cables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a kitchen wall — a detector helps, but it can still miss cables in conduit or behind foil-backed board, so always find your stopcock first (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns, and if you have any doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before you drill.
1 each · Stud and cable detector
1 each · Fridge magnet (for stud checking)
AB-04Cut the upstand to length and dry-fit the cornersCut each piece to length, mitring internal and external corners the same way you would for skirting, and dry-fit the whole run along the wall before sticking anything down. Check the top edge sits level and the ends butt neatly into the corner joints or end caps. If the wall is uneven, hold each piece in place, scribe the back edge to follow any dips or bumps, then trim with fine sandpaper.
1 sheet · Fine-grit sandpaper
AB-05Choose your fixing method for the wallA short, light upstand is usually held with adhesive and sealant alone — no screws needed on solid brick or block, sound plasterboard on timber studs, or dot-and-dab. On dot-and-dab, press the board gently first to check it feels firm and not hollow-soft, since heavy adhesive can pull weak dot-and-dab away from the wall. On lath and plaster, press the wall firmly — if the plaster feels soft, crumbly or moves under pressure, adhesive alone may not hold, and you should add a couple of small screw fixings into the timber studs or noggins behind the laths. On a metal stud wall, never rely on a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw — they will not grip 0.5mm steel — use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a hollow-wall toggle instead, screwed into the centre of a stud you have already located.
1 pack · Wood screws, 32mm
1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings
1 pack · Hollow-wall toggle fixings
AB-06Fix the upstand to the wallApply a continuous bead of grab adhesive to the back of each piece, keeping it about 10mm from the top edge so it doesn't squeeze out under the sealant line later. Press the upstand firmly onto the wall along your marked line and hold or tape it in place while the adhesive grips. If you're adding a mechanical fixing on lath and plaster or a metal stud, drill your pilot hole first — checking again for cables and pipes as before, and isolating the circuit if in doubt — then drive the screw or toggle home before the adhesive sets. On solid brick or block, drill to 6mm, insert a wall plug, and drive a screw home; on dot-and-dab, use a fixing long enough to pass through the plasterboard and the dot-and-dab gap and bite into the solid masonry behind.
1 roll · Masking tape
1 pack · Wall plugs (masonry, Rawlplug type)
1 each · Masonry drill bit, 6mm
AB-07Fit the corner joints and end capsPush each length firmly into its corner joint or end cap, wiping away any adhesive that squeezes out with a damp cloth straight away. Check the whole run is level and tight to the wall before moving on. Leave the masking tape in place while the adhesive cures — usually a few hours, but check the tube for the exact time.
1 each · Damp cloth
AB-08Seal the top edge and endsRun a neat bead of silicone sealant along the top edge of the upstand and into every joint and corner, then smooth it with a wet finger or a sealant tool for a clean finish. Wipe away any excess straight away — silicone is much harder to remove once it skins over.
1 each · Sealant gun
AB-09Leave to cure and tidy upRemove the masking tape once the adhesive has fully cured, following the guidance on the tube — usually around 24 hours. Avoid splashing water on the sealant for the same period. Wipe down the worktop and wash your tools before putting everything away.

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