Cut a sink or hob hole in a worktop

Cut a neat, correctly sized sink or hob hole in a worktop, with the cut edges sealed against water and heat.

SH-01Clear the area and protect surfacesClear everything off the worktop and remove the cupboard doors below if they get in the way of clamps. Lay a dust sheet over the hob or floor below to catch cuttings. Have the new sink or hob to hand, since you'll use its template or the unit itself to mark the hole.

1 each · Dust sheet

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SH-02Turn off water and electrics before disconnecting anythingIf you're replacing an existing sink, turn off the stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it actually stops the flow before you disconnect the taps and waste. If you're replacing a hob, isolate its circuit at the consumer unit before disconnecting any wiring — never assume a switch off at the wall is enough. If the hob is hardwired rather than plugged in, only disconnect it yourself if you're confident with mains electrics.

RULES

KNOW THE RULES

Part P covers notifiable electrical work such as new circuits. Simple like-for-like disconnection and reconnection at an existing fixed point isn't usually notifiable, but if you're not confident working on mains wiring, get a registered electrician to do it.

SH-03Remove the old sink or hobUndo the sink clips or hob clamps underneath the worktop and lift the old unit out. Scrape off any old silicone from the worktop surface with a plastic scraper so you have a clean, flat area to work on.

1 each · Plastic scraper

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SH-04Get the right template and check clearances firstUse the cardboard template supplied with the sink or hob — nearly all come with one. If there's no template, turn the unit upside down on the worktop and trace round its base, then mark in from that line by the amount stated in its fitting instructions (this allows for the lip that sits on top). Before marking anything, check there's enough clearance from walls, the cooker hood above a hob, and any cabinet door or drawer below.

SH-05Position and mark the cutting lineSit the template centrally on the worktop, square to the front edge, and hold it with masking tape. Draw round it with a sharp pencil, then draw a second line for the actual cut if the template already marks the finished lip line. Double-check every measurement against the fitting instructions before you cut — this is the one mistake you can't easily undo.

1 roll · Masking tape

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1 each · Pencil

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SH-06Drill starter holes and support the cut-out from belowDrill a 10mm starter hole just inside each corner of the marked line, angled slightly so the hole sits fully within the waste piece. Before cutting, screw or clamp a scrap batten underneath the cut-out area so it doesn't drop and tear the laminate as you finish the last cut.

1 each · 10mm flat wood drill bit

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1 each · Scrap timber batten

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SH-07Score the line on laminate worktopsOn laminate worktops, run a sharp utility knife along the cutting line a few times before you saw. This scores through the thin decorative layer and stops it chipping as the jigsaw blade exits. Solid wood or stone worktops don't need this step — check the manufacturer's guidance for stone, which often needs a specialist cutter rather than a jigsaw.

1 each · Utility knife

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SH-08Cut the hole with a jigsawFit a fine-tooth wood or laminate blade and start the cut from one of the starter holes. Cut slowly and let the blade do the work, following just inside your marked line so you can sand to the exact edge afterwards. Keep the offcut supported by the batten right to the last few centimetres so it doesn't snap off early and split the corner.

1 each · Fine-tooth jigsaw blade (laminate/wood)

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SH-09Ease the edges and test-fitSand the cut edge lightly to remove any roughness and square off the corners so the sink or hob lip sits flat. Lower the appliance into the hole dry, with no sealant, to check the fit and clearances before you commit to sealing anything.

1 each · Sanding block or fine sandpaper

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SH-10Seal the raw cut edgesChipboard and MDF worktops must have the exposed cut edge sealed with worktop sealant before fitting the sink — this is what stops water soaking in and swelling the core over time. Apply an even coat all round the cut and let it dry fully before fitting.

1 tube · Worktop sealant

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SH-11Fit the sink or hob, reconnect, and tidy upRun a bead of silicone sealant round the underside of the sink or hob lip, then lower it into place and fit the retaining clips or clamps underneath. Reconnect the water supply, waste, or hob wiring, turn the stopcock or circuit back on, and check for leaks or faults before loading the worktop back up. Vacuum up all sawdust and offcuts before you finish.

1 tube · Silicone sealant (kitchen grade)

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