KITCHENS

Fit a pull-out larder or bin system

Fit a pull-out larder or bin unit into an existing cabinet, then secure a tall unit safely to the wall behind it.

PL-01Check the kit and plan the fitUnpack the pull-out larder or bin unit and check every part against the instructions. Measure the cabinet opening's width, height and depth, and compare it to the unit's minimum size. If it's a tall larder unit, decide now that you'll be fixing the top back to the wall for stability once it's loaded.
PL-02Clear the cabinet and remove the doorEmpty the cupboard completely. Unscrew the door from its hinges and set it aside with the screws somewhere safe. If it has soft-close hinges, note how they sit so you can refit them the same way later.
PL-03Take out old shelving and hardwareRemove any fixed shelves, battens or brackets from inside the cabinet so the runners have a clear run. If you're reusing the same side panels, fill old screw holes with wood filler and let it dry fully before marking new ones nearby.
1 each · Wood filler tube
1 each · Filler knife
PL-04Mark up the runner positionsHold the runner brackets against the cabinet side panel at the height given in the unit's instructions, usually measured up from the base. Use a spirit level to keep both sides identical, then mark each screw hole with a bradawl or pencil. Recheck both sides are level with each other before you drill anything.
1 each · Spirit level 300mm
1 each · Bradawl
PL-05Drill pilot holes and fix the runners into the cabinet carcassCabinet sides are usually 15-18mm chipboard or MDF, not a wall, but a dishwasher or washing machine hose can sit close behind base units, so drill no deeper than the panel thickness. Drill a 2mm pilot hole at each mark, then screw the runners on with the screws supplied. Don't overtighten - chipboard strips out easily if you force it.
8 each · Cabinet screws (supplied with unit)
1 each · 2mm drill bit
PL-06Work out what's behind the wall before you drillFor a tall larder unit, tap the wall behind where it stands. A solid brick or block wall sounds dead all over. A plasterboard stud wall sounds hollow between studs and solid on the stud line - run a magnet or stud detector along to find a line of screw heads, usually 400-600mm apart. Drill one small 3mm test hole: timber dust means a timber stud, fine grey swarf means a metal stud, and dust falling through into a gap means dot-and-dab over solid masonry behind. Lath and plaster feels springy and sounds hollow almost everywhere, with narrow timber laths under old, uneven plaster. Cables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a kitchen wall, so use a cable and pipe detector but still treat the wall as live until you prove otherwise - detectors miss deep cables and anything behind metal-backed board, and a metal stud frame confuses cheap detectors further. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns. If you have any doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.
1 each · Cable and pipe detector
1 each · Stud detector or magnet
PL-07Choose and fit the right wall fixingIn solid brick or block, drill with a 6mm masonry bit to 50mm depth, push in a wall plug, and drive a 60mm screw through the bracket. Into a timber stud, drive a 50mm wood screw straight into the centre of the stud - no plug needed. Into a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the load - never a plain plastic plug or ordinary wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel. Through dot-and-dab, use a fixing at least 75-100mm long that passes through the board and dab gap into the masonry behind, with a plug suited to that masonry; a metal stud alone will never hold a loaded larder unit or anything that pulls away from the wall - fit a timber noggin or pattress between the studs, or fix through to the masonry.
1 pack · Masonry wall plugs (pack)
4 each · 60mm zinc-plated screws
4 each · 50mm wood screws
4 each · Metal-stud self-drilling fixings
4 each · Hollow-wall toggle fixings (rated)
4 each · Long dot-and-dab fixings (75mm)
PL-08Fit the wire baskets or bin buckets onto the runnersSlide the wire baskets or bin buckets onto the fitted runners as shown in the instructions, usually clipping or dropping into place. Push each one fully home and check it's seated evenly on both sides.
1 set · Wire baskets or bin buckets (supplied)
PL-09Test the slide action and adjust the runnersPull the unit fully out and push it fully in several times, checking it runs smoothly with no catching. If it sticks or sits crooked, loosen the runner screws slightly and nudge the bracket before retightening. Most runners have a small depth or angle adjustment screw - use it to get a flush close.
PL-10Refit the door and align itScrew the door back onto its hinges using the original screws. Adjust the hinge screws to get an even gap all round and a flush close against the neighbouring units. Check the door doesn't foul the pull-out when it's fully extended.
4 each · Hinge screws (existing)
PL-11Load test and tidy upLoad the baskets or bins to roughly their expected weight and pull them fully out to check the unit doesn't tip, rock, or pull away from any wall fixing. Vacuum out any drilling dust or metal swarf from inside the cabinet and off the floor. Put everything back into the new pull-out and step back to check it all runs and closes properly.
1 each · Dust sheet

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides