Fit a shower caddy or corner shelf to a solid brick or block wall

Fit a secure shower caddy or corner shelf, checking your wall type and using the right fixing so it stays put.

SC-01Plan the position and gather your toolsDecide where the caddy or shelf will sit - usually a corner, at a height you can reach comfortably without stretching. Try to avoid drilling right on a grout line if you can, as the edge can crumble. Lay a dust sheet in the bath or on the floor below, and get everything together before you start.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Spirit level (small)

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SC-02Check what's actually behind the tilesDon't assume the wall is solid just because the bathroom is old. Run a detector or magnet over the area, moving in a grid, and look for a line of screw heads under the tiles - that points to plasterboard on studs. Tap the wall: a solid, dead thud is brick or block; a hollow, drum-like sound means studs or dot-and-dab behind plasterboard. If you're still not sure, drill a small pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot - fine grey dust means masonry, pale wood dust means a timber stud or batten, and shiny metal swarf means a metal stud.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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SC-03Check for pipes and cables, and know your shut-offsBathroom walls often carry water pipes and sometimes cables for lights, shaver sockets or extractor fans, and they can run almost anywhere - not just in the 'safe zones' you might expect. A detector helps, but it can miss pipes that are deep, behind metal-backed board, or a cable in metal conduit, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector further. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

SC-04Drill and fix into solid brick or blockMark your fixing points with the caddy or shelf held level, using the spirit level to check. Drill through the tile first with a tile-and-masonry bit, then switch to a masonry bit to continue into the brick or block - a 6mm bit for a standard plastic wall plug. Drill to about 45mm deep, push in the wall plug so it sits flush, then drive in a 40-50mm screw (No.8 size is typical) until it's snug but not overtightened, which can crack the tile.

1 each · Tile-and-masonry drill bit

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1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm

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4 each · Wall plugs (red, 6mm)

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4 each · Screws No.8 x 40mm

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SC-05If it's not solid: the right fixing for other wall typesIf SC-02 showed studs behind plasterboard, find the centre of a timber stud with your detector and drive a wood screw straight in - no plug needed. If the swarf test showed a metal stud, never use a wood screw or a plain plastic plug, as it will strip straight through 0.5mm steel; use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing, or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor sized for the load. A loaded caddy full of wet bottles pulls on the wall constantly, so a metal stud or the plasterboard between studs often isn't enough on its own - fit a timber noggin between the studs first, or fix through to the masonry behind if there is any. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, use fixings long enough to pass through the board, the adhesive dabs and bite into the solid masonry behind - measure the gap first if you can. On lath and plaster, drill carefully to avoid cracking the plaster keying, and use a plug or toggle fixing rated for hollow walls rather than relying on the thin lath alone.

4 each · Metal-stud self-drilling fixings

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4 each · Hollow-wall toggle fixings

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1 length · Timber noggin (50x25mm)

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SC-06Mount the caddy or shelfLift the caddy or shelf onto its fixings and press or hook it into place, following the manufacturer's instructions. Check it's level again and give it a firm push and pull test to make sure it doesn't move. Load it with a couple of bottles to check it holds before you rely on it fully.

SC-07Seal the edgesRun a thin bead of mould-resistant silicone sealant around any edge where the caddy or shelf meets the tiles, especially along the top. This stops water tracking behind it and getting to the fixing or the wall. Smooth the bead with a wet finger or sealant tool for a neat finish.

1 each · Mould-resistant sanitary silicone sealant

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SC-08Tidy up and leave it to cureVacuum up all tile and masonry dust, then wipe the area down with a damp cloth. Fold the dust sheet away, dust and all. Leave the sealant to cure for at least 24 hours before using the shower normally, so it isn't disturbed by water or steam.

1 each · Cloth

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