Replace a bath panel — HomeGraft

Remove your old bath panel and fit a new one, with the right fixings if you need extra support at the wall end.

BP-01Clear the area and gather toolsEmpty the bath and clear the floor space in front of it. Lay a dust sheet or old towel down to protect the floor and catch dropped screws. Get your tools together: a screwdriver, tape measure, pencil, and a stud/cable detector if you might need to drill.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Screwdriver set

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1 each · Tape measure

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BP-02Remove the old panelMost bath panels simply clip or push onto the bath's frame. Look for turn buttons, plastic clips or a couple of screws along the top and bottom edges, and undo or unclip these. Lift the panel away, giving it a firm tug if old sealant has stuck it down. Check the wall and floor behind it for damp, mould or damage before going further.

1 each · Flat scraper

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BP-03Check the fixing pointsLook at how the old panel was held on — plastic clips screwed to the bath frame, a wooden batten, or turn buttons — and note their positions so the new panel lines up. If a clip or batten is loose, rotten or missing, replace it before you fit the new panel. This is also a good time to clean any old sealant or grime off the bath frame and floor.

BP-04Work out what's behind the wall before drillingIf the panel needs a support batten fixed to the wall, sweep a stud detector or magnet along the wall to find a vertical line of screw heads — that's a stud, and a hollow sound between them confirms the spacing. A small pilot hole showing timber dust means a timber stud; fine grey swarf means a metal stud, common in flats and newer builds. Cables and pipes can run almost anywhere, so use a detector but still treat the wall as live until proven otherwise, and check your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) turns before you start. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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BP-05Choose the right fixing for your wall typeUse a wood screw into the centre of a timber stud for a solid fix. For a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a hollow-wall toggle made for steel track — never a plain wall plug or wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel. On dot-and-dab plasterboard use a fixing long enough to pass through the void and grip the masonry behind; on solid brick or block drill a 6-7mm hole to the plug's depth and fit a matching wall plug before driving the screw; on lath and plaster skip the laths and fix into the joist or stud behind, as the laths will crumble. A metal stud alone won't hold anything that gets leaned on or knocked often — fix through to the masonry behind, or add a timber noggin between the studs.

1 pack · Wood screws (various)

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1 pack · Metal-stud self-drilling fixings

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1 pack · Hollow-wall toggle fixings

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1 pack · Wall plugs (red, 6mm)

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BP-06Fit a support batten if neededHold a length of 25 x 50mm timber batten against the wall at the end of the bath, level with the top edge of where the panel will sit. Mark and drill your fixing points using the method for your wall type, then screw the batten firmly in place. Check it's level with a spirit level before moving on.

1 metre · Timber batten 25 x 50mm

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1 each · Spirit level

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BP-07Measure and cut the new panel to sizeMeasure the width and height of the gap where the old panel sat, checking both ends as baths are rarely perfectly square. Mark the cutting lines on the new panel with a pencil and straight edge. Cut with a fine-tooth saw or jigsaw, then lightly sand the cut edge smooth.

1 each · Bath panel

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1 each · Fine-tooth saw or jigsaw blade

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1 sheet · Sandpaper

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BP-08Fit the new panelOffer the panel up and clip it into the fixing points, or screw it to the batten if that's how it's designed to fit. Check it sits level, doesn't rub the floor, and lines up flush with the bath edge. Adjust or trim slightly if it's binding anywhere.

1 pack · Panel clips (if not supplied)

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BP-09Seal the edgesRun a bead of silicone sealant along the top edge where the panel meets the bath, and along the bottom edge if it sits against the floor. Smooth it with a wet finger or a sealant tool for a neat finish. Leave it to cure for the time stated on the tube, usually 24 hours, before running a bath.

1 tube · Silicone sealant (sanitary grade)

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BP-10Tidy upRemove the dust sheet and sweep or vacuum up any dust, sawdust and offcuts. Wipe down the bath and surrounding surfaces. Dispose of the old panel responsibly — most plastic panels can go in with household plastic recycling, but check your local council's rules.

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