Fit a shower riser rail to a lath and plaster wall

Fit a shower riser rail securely to a lath and plaster wall, spreading the load so it holds firm under real use.

SR-01Gather your tools and protect the bathGet your drill/driver, spirit level, tape measure, pencil, pilot drill bits and screwdriver together before you start. Lay a dust sheet or old towel in the bath or shower tray to catch dust, screws and any dropped tools. Check your riser rail kit's fixing pack and its maximum load rating before you begin.

1 each · Shower riser rail kit

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1 each · Dust sheet

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1 pair · Safety glasses

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SR-02Work out what's actually behind the tilesTap the wall in a few spots: a hollow, springy sound usually means lath and plaster or a stud partition, while a dull, solid thud means brick or block. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot to check - crumbly white dust with a soft, springy feel confirms lath and plaster, while gritty red or grey dust means solid masonry. This tells you which fixing method to use further down the job.

1 each · 3mm pilot drill bit

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SR-03Find the timber studs and noggins behind the lathsLath and plaster is always nailed to timber, never metal studs, so use a stud detector or magnet to trace the line of nail heads holding the laths in place. Confirm with a small pilot hole: timber dust means you've hit a stud, joist or noggin, while a sudden gap after the plaster means you're only over the laths themselves. Mark the centre of at least two solid timbers with masking tape, spaced to suit your rail's fixing points, because lath alone will not hold this rail.

1 each · Stud detector

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1 roll · Masking tape

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SR-04Check for pipes and cables, and find your stopcockCables and pipes can run almost anywhere behind a bathroom wall, and a detector can miss cables that are deep, boxed in metal conduit, or behind old metal lath backing - always assume something is there until a small test hole proves otherwise. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you nick a pipe. If you have any real doubt about what's behind the wall, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling and keep the stopcock in reach.

SR-05Mark and level the rail positionHold the rail or its fixing template against the wall at your chosen height, typically 1900-2100mm above the shower tray for a riser rail. Use a spirit level to get it dead vertical and mark each fixing hole through the template with a pencil.

1 each · Spirit level

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SR-06Fit a plywood pattress across the studsLath and plaster alone will not hold a rail that people pull on hard, so fix a 900mm x 200mm x 18mm marine plywood pattress across at least two studs or noggins first. Drive 50mm wood screws into the centre of each timber through the ply, countersinking them slightly so the board sits flat. Mount the rail brackets onto this board instead of straight into the crumbly plaster - it spreads the load and stops the wall cracking around the fixings.

1 each · Marine plywood pattress, 900x200x18mm

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8 each · Wood screws, 50mm

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SR-07If it turns out to be solid brick or blockDrill an 8mm hole to 45mm depth at each mark, using a tile bit first if you're going through tiles and then swapping to a masonry bit. Push in a red 8mm rawlplug flush with the surface, then drive in a 50mm screw through the bracket into the plug.

6 each · Rawlplugs, 8mm

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6 each · Screws, 50mm

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SR-08If it turns out to be plasterboard on timber studsFix straight into the centre of a stud with a 50mm wood screw - no plug needed. If a fixing point falls between studs, use a heavy-duty spring toggle rated for the rail's pulling load rather than a light picture hook, since a riser rail takes real force every time it's used.

4 each · Heavy-duty spring toggle fixings

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SR-09If it turns out to be plasterboard on metal studsMetal studs need a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a screw-in hollow-wall anchor made for steel - never a plastic wall plug and never an ordinary wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel. A metal stud on its own is not strong enough for a shower riser rail, which gets pulled on hard every time someone uses it. Get a timber noggin fitted between the studs, or fix through to the masonry behind, before trusting any real weight to this wall.

4 each · Self-drilling metal stud fixings

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SR-10If it turns out to be dot-and-dab plasterboardThere's usually a 10-40mm gap of adhesive dabs behind the board, so measure it first with a long thin drill bit before buying fixings. Use a long screw and plug, or a dot-and-dab-rated frame fixing, sized to bridge that void and still bite at least 30mm into the masonry behind - a short fixing only grips the board and will pull straight out under load.

4 each · Long-reach frame fixings for dot-and-dab

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SR-11Fit the brackets and railDrill your chosen fixing holes through the pattress, stud, masonry or dot-and-dab wall as identified above. Fit the wall plates or brackets, check level again before fully tightening, then tighten firmly but not so hard that you crack the plaster or pattress. Slot the rail into the brackets and secure it following the kit's instructions.

SR-12Seal, test and tidy upRun a thin bead of sanitary silicone around the base of each bracket to stop water tracking behind the wall. Leave it to cure fully - usually 24 hours - before anyone uses the rail. Test by pulling firmly in the direction it'll actually be used, then vacuum up dust and pack your tools away.

1 tube · Sanitary silicone sealant

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