BATHROOMS

Fit a toilet-roll holder to a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall

Fit a toilet-roll holder safely and securely, checking what's behind your wall before drilling and choosing the right fixing for it.

TRH-01Gather your tools and check the kitLay everything out before you start. Toilet-roll holders usually come with screws and plastic plugs, but these are often wrong for dot-and-dab, metal studs or tiled walls, so keep proper fixings to hand as well. Put a dust sheet down to catch plasterboard or masonry dust.
1 each · Toilet-roll holder
1 each · Dust sheet
1 each · Cordless drill
1 each · Screwdriver
1 each · Spirit level (small)
TRH-02Mark the height and fixing pointsMost holders sit about 700mm above the finished floor, within easy reach of the loo. Hold the holder against the wall, get it dead level with a spirit level, then mark through the fixing plate holes with a pencil.
1 each · Pencil
1 each · Tape measure
TRH-03Check what's behind the wall before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the usual safe zones, so sweep both marked points with a detector first. Still treat the wall as if something is there until you prove otherwise — detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed board. Before drilling, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you're at all unsure, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before you drill.
1 each · Cable and pipe detector
TRH-04Work out your wall type and choose the right fixingOn solid brick or block, drill and fit a proper masonry wall plug with a screw driven at least 25mm into the masonry. On a timber stud wall, find the centre of a stud (a line of screw heads under a magnet, a solid sound when you tap, timber dust from a pilot hole) and drive a wood screw straight into it — no plug needed. On a metal stud wall, a magnet sticks to screw heads, the tap sounds hollow, and a pilot hole brings out fine steel swarf; never use a plastic plug or wood screw here, as they strip straight through 0.5mm steel — use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing, and if the holder pulls or wobbles, fit a timber noggin behind the board first. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, the board sits 10–40mm off the brick on adhesive dabs, so use a long fixing that passes through the board and dab to grip the masonry behind, not a short plug that only holds the plasterboard. On lath and plaster, try to locate and screw into a timber lath the same way as a stud; if you can't hit one, use a fixing designed to spread load across at least two laths.
1 pack · Masonry wall plugs (pack)
1 pack · Wood screws (pack)
1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings (pack)
1 pack · Dot-and-dab long fixings (pack)
1 each · Timber noggin offcut
TRH-05Drill the fixing holesUse a 6mm masonry bit for solid brick or block, drilling 30–40mm deep. Use a 3mm pilot bit for timber studs and laths. For metal studs and dot-and-dab, follow the fixing pack's drill size exactly, as these fixings only grip properly at the right hole diameter. Blow out any dust and wear safety glasses while drilling.
1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm
1 each · Wood pilot drill bit 3mm
1 each · Safety glasses
TRH-06Fit the holder to the wallPush in plugs or fixings so they sit flush with the wall. Screw the backplate on through both holes, checking with the spirit level again before you fully tighten. Don't overtighten plastic plugs or toggle fixings, as this can crack tiles or crush the fixing.
TRH-07Test, tidy up and finishGive the holder a firm tug to check it's solid, not just tight. Wipe away any dust and fold up the dust sheet. If it sits near a shower or bath, run a thin line of sanitary silicone around the backplate to stop water getting behind it.
1 each · Sanitary silicone sealant
1 each · Cloth

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