Fit a toilet-roll holder to a metal stud wall

Fit a toilet-roll holder safely and securely, working out your wall type first so you use the right fixing.

TP-01Gather your tools and materialsGet everything together before you start: a cordless drill/driver, a mixed set of drill bits (masonry, wood, and a small metal-cutting bit), a stud/cable detector, a spirit level, pencil, tape measure and a screwdriver. Lay a dust sheet or old towel under the work area to catch dust and screws.

1 each · Toilet-roll holder kit (with fixing screws)

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1 each · Dust sheet

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TP-02Choose the position and mark the heightMost people fit the holder about 700mm from the floor and 150-200mm forward of the front edge of the toilet pan, but check it feels right for your bathroom. Hold the holder in place and mark the top screw hole with a pencil, then use a spirit level to mark the second hole level with it.

TP-03Work out what your wall is made ofTap the wall: a dull, solid sound usually means brick or block, a hollow sound means plasterboard on a stud frame, and a hollow sound with a slight give under a hard tap point often means dot-and-dab. Run a stud detector or a magnet across the marked area — a magnet clicking onto screw heads in a line shows you a timber or metal stud. Drill a small pilot hole about 3mm wide at one mark: brick dust means masonry, pale wood dust means a timber stud or batten, and fine grey metal swarf means a metal stud. Lath and plaster feels slightly springy when tapped and often has a slightly uneven, wavy surface under the paint.

TP-04Check for cables and pipes, and know how to shut them offCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the usual safe zones, and a detector can miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed board — a metal stud frame can also confuse a cheap detector. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

TP-05Solid brick or block: drill and plugFit a masonry bit sized to match your wall plug, usually 6mm for a standard No.8 plug, and drill about 35-40mm deep. Push in a wall plug flush with the surface, then drive in the fixing screw supplied with your holder — a 4x40mm screw is typical. Brick and block give a very solid fixing, so no other bracing is needed.

2 each · Wall plugs (6mm)

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1 each · Masonry drill bit (6mm)

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TP-06Plasterboard on timber studs: screw into the centreIf a mark lands on a stud, drill a small pilot hole and drive a 4x40mm wood screw straight into the centre of it — no plug needed. If a mark falls between studs, use a plasterboard toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for at least 5kg, which is plenty for a toilet-roll holder.

2 each · Wood screws (4x40mm)

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2 each · Plasterboard toggle fixing

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TP-07Plasterboard on metal studs: use the right fixing, never a wall plugNever use a plain plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw in a metal stud — they strip straight through the thin steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor instead, driven in with a screwdriver bit rather than hammered. A toilet-roll holder is light and doesn't pull away from the wall in use, so this fixing alone is enough — you don't need a noggin behind it, unlike heavier fittings such as a TV arm or grab rail.

2 each · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

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TP-08Dot-and-dab plasterboard: fix through to the masonry behindDot-and-dab has a gap of roughly 10-40mm between the plasterboard and the solid wall behind, filled with adhesive dabs rather than a full backing. Use a long fixing — a plasterboard-and-masonry combination screw, or a plug long enough to pass through the board and reach solid material behind, typically 60-75mm. Drill slowly and check with a pilot hole first, since you may hit a dab of adhesive rather than open cavity.

2 each · Long fixing screws (60-75mm) for dot-and-dab

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TP-09Lath and plaster: go gently to avoid crackingOld lath and plaster is fragile and can crack if you drill too fast or too hard. Find the timber laths with your detector or a pilot hole, then screw a 4x40mm wood screw into the centre of a lath. If a mark falls between laths, use a plasterboard-style toggle fixing rather than trying to force a screw into thin plaster, and drill at a slow speed with light pressure throughout.

2 each · Wood screws (4x40mm)

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2 each · Plasterboard toggle fixing

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TP-10Fit the mounting plate and holderHold the back plate against the wall, line it up with your marks, and drive the screws home so the plate sits flat and doesn't rock. Slot or clip the roll holder arm onto the plate as shown in the kit's instructions, and check it's secure by gently trying to twist it.

TP-11Test and tidy upCheck the holder is level and give it a firm downward and outward pull to make sure the fixing holds. Vacuum up any dust or plaster debris, wipe down the wall, and put any masonry or plaster dust in a bag before binning it rather than shaking it into the air.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner bags/filter (if needed)

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