Fit a toilet-roll holder to a lath and plaster wall

Fit a toilet-roll holder securely by working out what is behind your wall first, then using the matching fixing.

TRH-01Gather your tools and kitGet everything together before you start: the toilet-roll holder kit, a pencil, tape measure, spirit level, drill/driver, a mixed set of drill bits (masonry and standard), and a dust sheet. Lay a dust sheet under the work area to catch debris, especially if you are drilling into old plaster.

1 each · Toilet-roll holder kit (with screws)

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1 each · Dust sheet

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1 roll · Masking tape

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TRH-02Mark the positionHold the holder's backplate against the wall at a comfortable height, usually around 700mm from the floor to the centre. Use a spirit level to keep it straight, then mark the screw hole centres with a pencil. If you're fixing near tiles, check the holes won't land right on a grout line, which is weaker.

TRH-03Work out what's behind the wallRun a stud detector or magnet over the marked area to check for screw heads or a metal frame. Tap the wall either side of your marks — a dull, solid sound usually means brick, block or a dab of adhesive; a hollow sound means you're between studs or laths. If you're still unsure, drill a small 2-3mm test hole: fine wood dust means timber or lath, fine grey powder means solid plaster or masonry, and bright metal swarf means a metal stud.

TRH-04Check for cables and pipes, and know your shut-offsBathrooms often have pipework and cables running in places you wouldn't expect, including behind tiles and lath and plaster. Use a detector to scan the area, but treat the wall as if something is there anyway — detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed board, and a metal stud frame can confuse cheap detectors. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut off water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry it.

TRH-05Fixing into solid brick or blockDrill with a 6mm masonry bit to a depth of 40-45mm, slightly deeper than your plug. Push in a wall plug rated for the hole size, then drive in the supplied screw until the backplate sits flush. Don't overtighten — you'll spin the plug in the hole.

1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit

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4 each · Wall plugs (brown, 6mm)

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TRH-06Fixing into lath and plasterLath and plaster is thin timber strips with plaster keyed between them, and it's fragile — the plaster can crumble around a new hole. Stick a small cross of masking tape over each mark before drilling to hold the plaster together as the bit breaks through. Where possible, fix into the timber stud behind the laths: drill a 3mm pilot hole through the plaster and lath, then drive a 50-60mm wood screw into the stud. If there's no stud behind your mark, use a self-drilling plasterboard-style toggle fixing rated for the holder's weight rather than relying on the lath alone.

1 each · 3mm pilot drill bit

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4 each · 50-60mm wood screws

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4 each · Self-drilling hollow-wall toggle fixings

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TRH-07Fixing into plasterboard on timber studsOnce you've confirmed a timber stud is behind your mark, drill a 3mm pilot hole at the centre of the stud. Drive a 40mm wood screw straight in — no plug needed, since the screw is biting into solid timber.

4 each · 40mm wood screws

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TRH-08Fixing into plasterboard on metal studsMetal studs give off bright metal swarf from a test hole rather than wood dust, and the tap sounds hollow with a slight metallic ring. Never use a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw here — it will strip straight through the 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud screw if fixing into the stud itself, or a proper hollow-wall toggle fixing rated for the holder's weight if fixing into the board between studs.

4 each · Self-drilling metal-stud screws

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4 each · Hollow-wall toggle fixings (metal stud rated)

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TRH-09Fixing into dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab walls have plasterboard stuck to the masonry with blobs of adhesive, leaving a gap of roughly 10-40mm behind the board in places. A short screw and plug may only grip the board itself, which isn't strong enough for a holder that gets pulled on. Use a long fixing, typically 60-75mm, sized to pass through the void and bite into the masonry behind, or a specific dot-and-dab rated fixing if the depth varies.

4 each · Long masonry fixings (60-75mm, dot-and-dab rated)

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TRH-10Fit the holder and finishScrew the backplate to the wall using the fixing method for your wall type, checking it's still level as you tighten. Don't overtighten — this can crack tiles or crumble old plaster around the hole. Clip or screw on the roll-holder arm once the backplate is secure.

TRH-11Test and tidy upHang a toilet roll and give the arm a firm pull to check the fixing holds without any movement in the wall. Brush away dust and any plaster crumbs, wipe down the tiles or wall, and pack away your tools.

1 each · Damp cloth

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