Fit a toothbrush and tumbler holder to a lath and plaster wall

Fit a bathroom toothbrush holder safely, checking your wall type first and using the correct fixing for a secure, level result.

TB-01Gather your tools and check the kitUnpack the toothbrush and tumbler holder and check you have the fixing screws and any wall plugs supplied. These are often too short or the wrong type for a UK wall, so keep a mixed pack of plugs and screws to hand as backup. Get a spirit level, pencil, masking tape, a cable and pipe detector, and a drill with a small bit set (3mm–6mm).

1 each · Toothbrush and tumbler holder kit

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1 pack · Mixed wall plug and screw pack

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1 each · Spirit level (small)

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1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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TB-02Confirm your wall type at the exact fixing spotLath and plaster feels slightly springy when you press it, and tapping gives a duller, thinner sound than brick. It's thin plaster over narrow wooden laths with gaps behind, so your fixing point might land on solid lath or on a gap. Many bathrooms mix wall types in one room — a stud partition next to an original brick wall, for example — so check the actual patch of wall you're drilling, not just the room in general. If it's a stud wall, use a magnet or detector to find the timber or metal upright; if it's brick or block behind tiles, it will feel hard and give a sharp knock.

TB-03Mark the position and check for cables and pipesHold the holder in place, mark the screw holes with a pencil, and check they're level. Before drilling anywhere, run your detector over the marked spots — but treat it as a guide, not a guarantee. Detectors can miss cables that are deep, run in metal conduit, sit behind metal-backed plasterboard, or lie outside the usual safe zones, and metal stud frames can confuse cheaper detectors further. Find your stopcock now (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what's behind the wall, isolate the electrics at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry it.

TB-04Drill the fixing holes for your wall typeFor lath and plaster, drill slowly with light pressure and no hammer action — a 3–4mm pilot hole is usually enough, and going too fast can crack the old plaster. For solid brick or block, use a hammer drill with a 6mm masonry bit to the depth marked on your plug. For a plasterboard wall on timber studs, drill a small pilot hole into the centre of the stud. For plasterboard on metal studs, a slower drill speed stops the bit skating off the steel — a fine metal shaving from the hole confirms it's metal, not timber dust. For dot-and-dab plasterboard, you'll need a longer fixing that reaches through the air gap into the solid masonry behind, so drill deep enough to clear both layers.

1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm

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1 set · Wood/metal drill bit set 3-4mm

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TB-05Fit the correct anchor or screw for your wallIn solid brick or block, tap in a 6mm wall plug flush with the surface, then drive the screw in. In a timber stud, drive a wood screw straight into the centre of the stud — no plug needed. In a metal stud, never use a plain plastic plug or an ordinary wood screw, as it will strip straight through the thin steel; use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a small toggle-type hollow-wall anchor instead. On plasterboard between studs (no stud underneath), use a plastic or metal spring toggle rated for at least double the fitted weight. Behind dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing long enough to bite into the masonry behind, not just the plasterboard skin. On lath and plaster, a lightweight self-drilling plasterboard-type anchor works well if your hole lands on a gap between laths; if it lands on solid lath, a normal screw driven gently into the timber lath itself will hold just as well.

4 each · Wall plugs 6mm

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2 each · Self-drilling metal stud fixings

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2 each · Spring toggle fixings

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2 each · Self-drilling plasterboard anchors

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TB-06Fit the holder and check it's levelLine up the holder over the fixings and screw it into place, tightening evenly so it sits flush against the wall. Recheck with your spirit level before fully tightening the last screw, as small errors are easy to fix now and hard to fix later. Give it a gentle tug to check it feels solid.

TB-07Seal the edges with siliconeRun a thin bead of bathroom sealant around the base of the holder where it meets the wall, especially if it's near a basin or shower splash zone. This stops water getting behind the fixing and softening the plaster or plasterboard over time. Smooth it with a wet finger or sealant tool for a neat finish.

1 each · Bathroom silicone sealant (small tube)

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TB-08Tidy up and let the sealant cureVacuum up any dust or plaster debris, especially from lath and plaster drilling, which can be quite crumbly. Wipe down the wall and holder, and leave the sealant to cure for the time stated on the tube — usually 24 hours — before using the holder normally.

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