Fit a wall-hung vanity unit to a solid brick or block wall — HomeGraft

Mount a wall-hung vanity unit securely to a solid wall, then connect its tap and waste ready to use.

VB-01Turn off the water and clear the areaFind your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns fully before you start. Turn it off so you can react fast if you nick a pipe later. Remove the old basin or pedestal if you're replacing one, and clear the area so you can work without tripping over things.

1 each · Bucket

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VB-02Confirm your wall is solid brick or blockThis guide is for solid masonry only. Tap the wall firmly with your knuckle: a solid, dull thud means brick or block, while a hollow sound means a stud wall or dot-and-dab, which need different fixings. Drill a small 5mm test hole in an unseen spot; brick dust confirms masonry, but timber dust or fine steel swarf means you're actually into a stud, and this method won't hold a vanity unit safely there. If your wall turns out to be stud, dot-and-dab or lath and plaster, stop and follow guidance for that wall type instead.

1 each · Masonry drill bit 5mm

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VB-03Check for cables and pipes before drillingRun a cable and pipe detector over the whole fixing area, in both directions, before you drill anything. Detectors miss things too, especially deep cables or pipes in metal conduit, so treat the result as a guide, not a guarantee. If you have any doubt, isolate the electrics at the consumer unit before drilling, and make sure your stopcock is off before you cut into anything that could carry water.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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VB-04Mark the fixing height and level lineCheck the manufacturer's instructions for the correct rim height, typically around 850mm from the finished floor. Hold the vanity unit or its fixing rail against the wall at this height and mark the top edge with a pencil. Use a spirit level to draw a true horizontal line, then mark your fixing points along it.

1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Tape measure

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VB-05Drill and plug the wallUse an SDS or hammer drill with a masonry bit sized to match your wall plugs, usually 8-10mm, and drill to the depth stated on the plug packet, typically 50-60mm. Clear the dust out of each hole before pushing the plug in flush with the wall. A vanity unit is heavy once loaded with water, so use heavy-duty red or brown plugs rather than small general-purpose ones.

1 each · SDS masonry drill bit 8mm

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6 each · Heavy-duty wall plugs

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VB-06Fit the wall bracket or fixing railMost vanity units come with a metal fixing rail or bracket that takes the weight. Screw it to the wall through the plugged holes using coach screws or heavy-duty screws, tightening evenly so it sits flat against the wall. Give it a firm tug once fitted to check it doesn't move at all.

6 each · Coach screws M8 x 80mm

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VB-07Fit the tap and waste to the unit firstIt's much easier to fit the tap and basin waste trap while the unit is still on the floor or a bench, rather than working upside down against the wall. Wrap the tap tail threads with PTFE tape and tighten the tap connector nuts by hand, then a quarter turn with a spanner. Fit the waste trap loosely for now; you'll tighten it fully once the unit is hung.

1 each · Basin tap

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1 roll · PTFE tape

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1 each · Basin waste trap

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VB-08Hang the unit and check it's levelLift the vanity unit onto the wall bracket, making sure it engages fully and sits square. Check it's level side to side and front to back with a spirit level, and adjust if the bracket allows. Tighten any locking screws or clips that hold the unit onto the bracket.

1 each · Spirit level

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VB-09Connect the water supply and waste pipeConnect flexible tap connectors between the tap tails and your isolation valves, tightening compression nuts firmly by hand then a further quarter turn with a spanner. Connect the waste trap outlet to the existing waste pipe using a push-fit or compression joint, making sure the pipe run still falls slightly downhill towards the drain.

2 each · Flexible tap connectors

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1 each · Push-fit waste pipe connector

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VB-10Turn the water back on and test for leaksTurn the stopcock back on slowly and run the tap for a minute, checking every joint you made underneath the unit. Look and feel for even the smallest drip at the tap connectors and the waste trap. Tighten gently if needed, but don't overtighten compression fittings or you'll damage the olive.

1 each · Kitchen roll

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VB-11Seal the edges and tidy upRun a thin, even bead of silicone sealant along the join between the unit and the wall, and around the basin edge if not already sealed, to stop water getting behind it. Smooth it with a wet finger or sealant tool and wipe away any excess straight away. Clear away dust and offcuts, and dispose of any masonry dust and old fittings responsibly.

1 tube · Bathroom silicone sealant

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