Fit a wall-mounted door stop to a timber stud wall — HomeGraft

Stop your door banging into the wall by fitting a simple door stop, checking safely for cables and pipes first.

DS-01Gather your tools and materialsYou'll need a drill, a screwdriver, a pencil, a tape measure, a small spirit level and a cable/pipe detector. Pick your exact screws and plugs once you know what your wall is made of — see the next step. Lay a dust sheet under your work area to catch drilling dust.

1 each · Wall-mounted door stop (rubber buffer type)

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1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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1 each · Cordless drill

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1 set · Pilot drill bit set

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1 each · Dust sheet

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DS-02Choose the right spotOpen the door fully and see where the handle or edge would hit the wall. Mark this point with a pencil — most door stops sit low, roughly 100-150mm up from the skirting, but yours may need to be higher if it's a door-edge type. Check the door swings freely and doesn't catch on furniture before you commit to the spot.

1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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DS-03Work out what your wall is made ofTap the wall near your mark. A dull, solid sound usually means brick or block; a hollow sound means plasterboard on a frame. Run a detector or magnet across the area to find a line of screw heads — this tells you where the studs are and whether the fixings are steel (a magnet sticks) or brass/timber-screw (nothing sticks, meaning timber studs). If unsure, drill a very small pilot hole: pale wood dust means a timber stud, fine grey swarf means a metal stud, and a short drill with dense resistance and brick dust means solid masonry. Dot-and-dab plasterboard sounds hollow but feels rigid, with foam or plaster dabs roughly 50mm behind the board; lath and plaster is common in older homes and has a slight springy feel, with thin timber laths and lime plaster behind.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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1 each · Small magnet

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DS-04Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the 'safe zones' you might have heard of. Sweep your detector over the exact spot, but still treat the area as if something could be there — cheap detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, and anything behind metal-backed plasterboard, and a metal stud frame can confuse them further. Find your stopcock now (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns, so you can shut off water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

DS-05Fixing into a timber studThis is the strongest fixing and needs no wall plug. Drill a 2mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud at your marked point, then screw the door stop's baseplate straight into the timber using a 4mm x 30-40mm wood screw. Tighten until snug — don't overtighten, as this can strip the timber.

1 each · Wood screw 4mm x 30mm

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DS-06Fixing into solid brick or blockIf your wall is solid masonry, drill a 6mm hole to a depth of about 35mm using a masonry bit. Insert a wall plug rated for the drill size, then drive in a 4mm x 40mm screw through the door stop's baseplate. Vacuum out the dust before inserting the plug so it grips properly.

1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm

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1 each · Wall plug (Rawlplug or equivalent)

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1 each · Screw 4mm x 40mm

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DS-07Fixing into a metal studNever use a plain plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw in a metal stud — it will strip straight through the 0.5mm steel. Instead, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for light duty, fitted directly into the stud track or the plasterboard beside it. A door stop only takes light knocks, so this fixing is normally strong enough, but if your door is heavy or slams hard, fit a timber noggin between the studs first for extra security.

1 each · Self-drilling metal stud fixing

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DS-08Fixing through dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab has a void of roughly 50mm between the plasterboard and the masonry wall behind it, so a short fixing will just spin in the gap. Drill through the board first to check the depth to the masonry, then use a long masonry screw or frame fixing — typically 60-75mm — that passes through the void and grips into the solid wall behind. This gives a much more secure fixing than relying on the plasterboard alone.

1 each · Long masonry frame fixing 65mm

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DS-09Fixing into lath and plasterOld lath and plaster walls are fragile and crack easily, so find a solid timber batten or stud behind the laths using your detector rather than relying on the laths themselves. Put a strip of masking tape over the drilling point to stop the old plaster crumbling, then drill a small pilot hole and drive in a fine screw slowly. Go gently — these walls don't forgive heavy-handed drilling.

1 roll · Masking tape

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1 each · Fine wood screw 3mm x 25mm

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DS-10Test the door stop and tidy upOpen and close the door a few times to check the stop is in the right place and holds firm without wobbling. Give the screw a final snug turn if needed, but don't overtighten. Vacuum up drilling dust, wipe down the wall, and pop any leftover plugs or screws in your fixings tin for next time.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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