DOORS & JOINERY

Fit a wall-mounted door stop to a lath and plaster wall

Fit a wall-mounted door stop that copes with real use, by finding solid backing behind old plaster first.

DS-01Plan the position and check the door swingOpen the door fully and see where it naturally rests, or decide where you want it to stop before it hits a handle, radiator or skirting. Most wall-mounted door stops sit around 100-150mm above the skirting, roughly level with the door handle. Mark the spot in pencil, then hold the stop against the wall to check it clears the skirting and nothing else is in the way.
1 each · Pencil
1 each · Tape measure
DS-02Work out what's behind the plasterLath and plaster is thin timber laths nailed to timber studs, with lime plaster keyed through the gaps — there's no plasterboard or dot-and-dab behind it. Use a stud detector or a strong magnet to find the line of old cut nails, and knock along the wall: a duller, firmer sound means a stud, a hollow sound means you're between them. Some older houses have lath and plaster fixed over timber battens on solid brick instead — a dead, solid knock suggests masonry close behind rather than a stud. If a small test hole brings out fine grey swarf instead of wood dust, someone has fitted a metal stud behind a plaster skim, and you'll need a proper metal-stud fixing rather than a wood screw.
1 each · Stud detector
1 each · Small magnet
DS-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillRun a cable and pipe detector over the marked area, but don't rely on it alone — old cut nails and lath and plaster can confuse cheap detectors, and buried cables in conduit are easily missed. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all about what's behind the wall, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.
1 each · Cable and pipe detector
DS-04Drill a pilot hole without cracking the plasterStick a strip of masking tape over your pencil mark to stop the drill skating and to help hold the brittle old plaster together as it breaks through. Use a masonry bit for solid backing or a fine wood bit for a timber stud, and drill slowly on a low speed. Go just deep enough to reach the stud or masonry behind — around 45-50mm for a timber fixing, or 35-40mm for a masonry plug.
1 roll · Masking tape
1 set · Drill bit set (wood and masonry)
1 each · Dust sheet
DS-05Choose the right fixing for what's behindIf you found a timber stud or batten, drive a 40-50mm No.8 wood screw straight into its centre — a door stop takes repeated knocks, so it needs a firm timber fixing, not just plaster. If you found solid masonry behind the laths, use a 6mm wall plug and matching screw, pushing the plug fully home before driving the screw in. Don't rely on a hollow-wall toggle in lath and plaster — repeated knocks from the door can work it loose and pull straight through the laths over time. If there's no stud or masonry near your chosen spot, screw a small timber pattress (around 50x50x18mm) to the nearest stud first, then fix the door stop to that.
4 each · No.8 wood screws, 50mm
4 each · 6mm wall plugs
1 each · Timber pattress offcut
DS-06Fit the door stop and test itScrew the door stop firmly to the wall or pattress, checking it sits square and doesn't wobble. Swing the door open by hand a few times to check it meets the stop cleanly without catching the handle, skirting or frame. Tighten any grub screw, or check the buffer is seated properly if it's a rubber-tipped type.
1 each · Wall-mounted door stop
1 each · Screwdriver
DS-07Tidy up and touch up the wallFill any hairline cracks around the fixing with a fine surface filler, let it dry fully, then rub down lightly with fine sandpaper. Touch in with matching paint once the filler is dry. Vacuum up any plaster dust and put your tools away.
1 tub · Fine surface filler
1 sheet · Fine sandpaper
1 tester pot · Matching touch-up paint

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