HANGING & WALL MOUNTING

Fit a wall-mounted monitor arm to a lath and plaster wall

Mount a monitor arm safely on a lath and plaster wall by fixing through to the timber stud behind it.

WM-01Check the arm and your monitor matchCheck the monitor's VESA hole pattern (usually 75x75mm or 100x100mm) matches the arm's plate. Check the monitor's weight against the arm's maximum rated weight — do not guess this. Lay out your tools: drill, 3mm and 6mm bits, screwdriver bit, spirit level, pencil, tape measure, masking tape, dust sheet and a cable/stud detector.
1 each · Monitor arm (VESA compatible)
1 each · Dust sheet
WM-02Mark your mounting heightSit where you'll normally sit and mark the height where the screen's centre should sit at eye level. Hold the arm's wall plate against the wall at this height and mark the fixing hole positions with a pencil. Use a spirit level to make sure the plate is level before marking.
1 each · Spirit level
1 each · Pencil
WM-03Detect services and find your stopcock before you drillRun a cable/pipe detector over the marked area, but don't rely on it alone — detectors miss cables that run deep, in metal conduit, or outside the usual safe zones, and lath and plaster walls can hide old wiring at odd heights. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut off water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.
1 each · Cable and pipe detector
WM-04Work out exactly what's behind the plasterLath and plaster is thin timber laths nailed across timber studs or joists, spaced roughly 400-600mm apart, covered in 15-20mm of lime plaster. A pilot hole through true lath and plaster feels soft and crumbly at first, then hits solid timber. If the wall feels flat and even with a dimpled screw pattern instead, you likely have plasterboard on timber studs, not lath and plaster — a magnet won't stick, and a pilot hole brings out fine timber dust. Plasterboard on metal studs has the same screw-line pattern but a magnet barely grips, and a pilot hole brings out fine grey metal swarf instead of dust — you will not find this often behind original lath and plaster, but check if the wall has clearly been re-boarded. Dot-and-dab feels hollow with sudden solid patches roughly every 300mm; solid brick or block feels solid everywhere and a pilot hole brings out brick-red dust.
WM-05Drill pilot holes through the plaster into the studStick a cross of masking tape over each fixing point — this stops the old lime plaster cracking or spalling as the drill bites in. Drill slowly with a 3mm bit through the plaster and lath (roughly 20-25mm) until you reach solid timber; you'll feel the resistance change. If a hole only brings out plaster dust and never reaches solid timber, move sideways in small steps until you find the stud — never fix into lath alone, it will pull straight out.
1 roll · Masking tape
1 each · 3mm HSS drill bit
WM-06Fit a backing pattress if the fixing points don't line up with a studA monitor arm pulls and levers on its fixings every time you move the screen, so it needs solid backing, not just plaster. If your two fixing holes don't both land on the same stud, screw a plywood pattress (around 150x300x18mm) across two studs first, then fix the arm's wall plate to the pattress instead of straight to the plaster. This spreads the load and stops the brittle old plaster cracking around the screws over time.
1 each · 18mm plywood offcut (150x300mm)
4 each · 50mm wood screws
WM-07Fix the wall plateUse screws long enough to pass through the plate, the plaster (roughly 20mm), the lath (roughly 10mm) and still bite at least 35mm into solid timber — 65mm screws are usually right for a stud, or coach screws with washers for a heavier arm. Drive them in evenly, checking the plate stays level, and stop as soon as they're snug. Don't overtighten — old lime plaster cracks easily under sudden force.
4 each · 65mm wood screws
4 each · Washers (for coach screws)
WM-08Attach the arm and fit the monitorBolt the arm onto the fixed wall plate following the manufacturer's instructions. Screw the VESA plate to the back of the monitor, then lift the monitor onto the arm and secure the quick-release clamp or screws. Check the arm holds the monitor steady at full extension before letting go completely.
WM-09Route and tidy the cablesRun power and video cables through the arm's built-in cable channel or clips, leaving enough slack for the arm to move fully without pulling tight. Bundle any loose cable with a tie or clip so it doesn't snag when you swing the arm.
4 each · Cable ties
WM-10Test the fixing and finish upMove the arm through its full range with the monitor attached, checking the wall plate and pattress stay tight and the wall shows no fresh cracking. Retighten any screws that have loosened. Fill any small plaster chips with a dab of filler, let it dry, then vacuum up dust and fold away the dust sheet.
1 each · Multi-purpose filler (small tub)

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