Fit a wall-mounted monitor arm to a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall

Fit a monitor arm safely and level, with fixings that reach through to solid support behind the wall.

MA-01Plan the position and check the wallDecide where the arm needs to sit for a comfortable eye line, usually with the top of the screen just below eye height when seated. Tap the wall in a grid pattern around that spot. Dot-and-dab plasterboard sounds hollow almost everywhere, with occasional firmer patches where the adhesive dabs sit behind the board. If you get an even, drum-tight sound with a clear pattern of studs every 400-600mm instead, you have a timber or metal stud wall, not dot-and-dab, and this guide's fixings are not right for it.

1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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MA-02Check for cables and pipes, and know how to isolate themCables and pipes can run almost anywhere behind a wall, not just in the usual safe zones, and a cheap detector can miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind foil-backed plasterboard. Sweep the area with a cable and pipe detector, but still treat the wall as if something is there. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, and know where your consumer unit is. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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MA-03Mark the fixing centresHold the arm's wall plate against the wall at your chosen height and check it with a spirit level. Mark through the fixing holes with a pencil. Most monitor arm plates have two or four holes on a rectangular pattern, so double-check the spacing matches the plate before you drill anything.

1 each · Spirit level

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MA-04Drill through the plasterboard and the dab gapFit an 8mm masonry bit and drill slowly at each marked point. You will feel the drill pass through the plasterboard skin (around 12.5mm), then break into open air where the dab adhesive gap sits (this can be anywhere from a few mm up to 40mm), then meet solid resistance again as it reaches the brick or block wall behind. Keep drilling into the masonry to a depth of at least 50-60mm so the fixing has proper grip. A monitor arm pulls and twists on its fixings every time you move the screen, so a fixing into plasterboard alone is not enough here.

1 each · Masonry drill bit, 8mm

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1 each · Dust sheet

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MA-05Fit long fixings that bridge the dab gapUse frame fixings or sleeve anchors long enough to pass through the plasterboard, cross the dab air gap, and still bite at least 40-50mm into the masonry - typically 7.5 x 112mm for a normal dab gap, longer if your gap measured wide in step 4. Push each fixing through the hole until the sleeve seats against the plasterboard, then wind it in with a screwdriver or drill driver until it is snug. Do not overtighten, as this can crush the plasterboard around the hole.

1 pack · Frame fixings (sleeve anchors), 7.5 x 112mm, pack of 10

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MA-06Mount the wall plateHold the arm's wall plate in position and drive the fixing screws through it into the anchors you have just fitted. Check the plate with a spirit level before fully tightening, then tighten all fixings evenly so the plate sits flat against the wall with no rocking.

1 each · Cordless drill driver

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MA-07Fit the arm and attach the monitorClip or bolt the arm mechanism onto the wall plate as per the arm's instructions. Screw the VESA mounting plate onto the back of the monitor using the screws supplied, matching the correct VESA hole pattern (commonly 100 x 100mm). Lift the monitor onto the arm and secure the locking mechanism or bolts fully.

1 each · Monitor arm kit

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MA-08Route and secure the cablesRun the power and video cables along the arm using the clips or channel provided, leaving enough slack for the arm to move through its full range without pulling tight. Secure any loose cable runs down the wall or desk leg with cable clips so nothing dangles or catches.

1 pack · Cable clips, self-adhesive, pack of 20

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MA-09Test the movement and check the fixingMove the arm and monitor through its full range of motion - up, down, in, out, and tilted. Watch the wall plate closely for any flexing, movement, or cracking around the fixings. If you see any movement at the wall, stop using the arm and re-check the fixings before continuing, as this usually means the fixing has not reached solid masonry.

MA-10Clean upVacuum up plaster and masonry dust from the floor and windowsill, and wipe down the wall around the fixing. Check the wall surface for any cracking or crumbling around the holes and touch up with a little filler if needed. Bag up the packaging and any offcuts for disposal.

1 each · Filler, small tub

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