Fit an acrylic or aluminium splashback

Measure, cut and fix a splashback behind your hob or sink, choosing the right fixing for your wall.

SB-01Measure up and plan the jobMeasure the width and height you need to cover, from the worktop up to the underside of the wall units or extractor. Note where sockets, switches or a gas pipe will need a cut-out. Order a splashback made to size, or buy an oversized sheet and trim it yourself. Leave a small gap of 2-3mm at each edge for expansion, especially with acrylic near a hob.

SB-02Gather your tools and materialsYou'll need the splashback panel, panel adhesive, silicone sealant, masking tape, a fine-tooth jigsaw blade if cutting, and a cable and pipe detector. If you're fixing into the wall as well as gluing, add the correct fixings for your wall type (see later steps). Lay out dust sheets to protect the worktop and floor.

1 panel · Acrylic or aluminium splashback panel, cut to size

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1 tube (290ml) · Panel adhesive (gap-filling, solvent-free)

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1 tube (300ml) · Silicone sealant, kitchen grade

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1 roll · Masking tape

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1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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SB-03Check for pipes and cables before you drill or cutCables and pipes can run almost anywhere behind a kitchen wall, not just in the obvious places. Use a detector to scan the area, but still assume something could be there and work carefully — detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed plasterboard, or a metal stud frame can throw a cheap detector off completely. Find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns before you start, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

SB-04Work out what's behind the wallIf you're only gluing a light acrylic panel to solid brick or block, or to dot-and-dab plasterboard, you can usually skip mechanical fixings and go to adhesive. If you're fixing into a stud wall, or fitting a heavier aluminium panel, first find out what kind of stud you have. Run a magnet or stud detector along the wall to find a line of screw heads under the plasterboard — steady spacing means studs. Tap between the marks: a dull thud is a stud, a hollow sound is the gap. Drill a small pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot — fine pale dust means timber, fine grey metal swarf means a metal stud. Lath and plaster walls feel slightly springy and sound hollow with a knocking, crackling echo, and are usually found in pre-1930s houses that haven't been replastered.

SB-05Choose the right fixing for your wallInto a timber stud, use a wood screw driven into the centre of the stud, not the edge. Into a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor made for metal studs — never a plastic wall plug and never a plain wood screw, as both strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Fixing into plasterboard between the studs, use a toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for the panel's weight. In solid brick or block, drill to the plug's stated size and depth and use a Rawlplug and screw. Through dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a longer fixing that passes through the dabs and bites into the masonry behind — a short fixing will just pull out of the plaster dab. A metal stud alone won't hold anything heavy, so if you're hanging a solid aluminium panel with mechanical fixings as well as adhesive, spread the fixings across more than one stud or fix through to the masonry.

1 pack · Wood screws 4mm x 40mm (pack)

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1 pack · Metal-stud self-drilling fixings (pack of 10)

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1 pack · Hollow-wall toggle fixings for plasterboard (pack of 4)

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1 pack · Rawlplugs and screws for masonry (pack)

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1 pack · Long fixings (75mm) for dot-and-dab

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SB-06Cut the panel to size and mark socket cut-outsIf your panel needs trimming, mask the cut line with tape to stop chipping, then cut with a fine-tooth jigsaw blade, supporting the offcut so it doesn't snap away at the end. Offer the panel up to the wall and mark the position of any sockets or switches. Drill a starter hole in each corner of the cut-out, then join them up with the jigsaw, keeping cuts a few mm oversized so the panel sits flat against the faceplate.

1 each · Fine-tooth jigsaw blade (for plastic/metal)

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SB-07Prepare the wall surfaceRemove any old tiles, wallpaper or flaking paint from the area. Wipe the wall down with sugar soap or a degreaser to remove grease, especially near the hob, and let it dry fully. A flat, clean surface gives adhesive the best chance of holding long-term.

1 bottle · Sugar soap or degreaser

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SB-08Apply adhesive to the panelApply the panel adhesive to the back of the splashback in a grid of dabs or continuous beads, following the adhesive's instructions. Keep adhesive back from the cut edges so it doesn't squeeze out and show once fitted. Don't apply adhesive over the socket cut-outs.

SB-09Add mechanical fixings if your panel needs themAdhesive alone is fine for a light acrylic panel on solid masonry or dot-and-dab. For a heavier aluminium panel, or any panel going directly over a stud wall, add mechanical fixings using the correct type for your wall from step SB-05. Drill through pre-marked fixing points near the edges, where any screw heads can later be hidden by trim or sealant.

SB-10Press the panel into place and support it while it curesOffer the panel up, align it with the worktop and any cut-outs, and press it firmly and evenly into the adhesive. Use strips of masking tape or props to hold it in position, and check it's level with a spirit level. Leave it undisturbed for the time stated on the adhesive tube, usually at least a few hours.

SB-11Seal the edges and jointsOnce the adhesive has set, run a bead of silicone sealant along the join with the worktop and any side walls, and around the socket cut-outs. Smooth it with a wet finger or a sealant tool for a neat, waterproof finish. This stops water getting behind the panel and onto the wall.

SB-12Fit trims and finish upIf your splashback has exposed cut edges, fit an aluminium edge trim for a neater, safer finish. Remove masking tape, wipe away any smears of adhesive or sealant while still soft, and turn the water or power back on if you isolated it earlier. Clear away dust sheets and offcuts.

1 metre · Aluminium edge trim

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