Clean, measure and stick tiles onto a flat wall, cutting pieces to fit edges and sockets, then seal the joints.
SB-01Clear the area and check the wallTake everything off the worktop and unplug nearby appliances so you have a clear run at the wall. Wipe the surface with sugar soap to remove grease, then let it dry fully. Stick-on tiles need a flat, sound, dry surface — they will not stick to wallpaper, flaking paint, or heavily textured plaster, so sort any of that out first.
SB-02Measure and plan the layoutMeasure the width and height of the area you're covering and work out how many tiles you need, plus a few spares for mistakes. Dry-lay a row of tiles on the worktop first to see how the pattern falls, and try to plan so any cut tiles end up at the sides or corners rather than in the middle of the splashback.
SB-03Mark a level starting lineWorktops are sometimes slightly out of level, so don't just line the first row up to the worktop edge. Use a spirit level to draw a straight horizontal pencil line a set distance above the worktop, and start your first row of tiles from this line. Mask off the worktop edge with tape to protect it from adhesive smears as you work.
SB-04Cut tiles to fit edges and cornersMeasure each gap at the ends of a row and mark the tile to size. Thin vinyl-style stick-on tiles can be cut with sharp scissors or a utility knife against a steel rule; heavier tile-effect panels usually score-and-snap. Always cut with the backing still on, and cut face-down so any rough edge ends up at the back.
SB-05Stick the first row and build upwardPeel back a little of the backing paper, line the tile up carefully to your pencil line, then press it into place and peel the rest of the backing away as you go. Press firmly from the centre outward with a cloth or seam roller to bed it down and push out any air bubbles. Finish the whole bottom row before starting the next one up, so everything stays level.
SB-06Fit tiles around sockets and switchesCut the tile so it sits neatly against the edge of the faceplate — never let adhesive or tile edges cover a socket opening. If you want to tuck the tile edge behind the faceplate for a neater finish, turn off the circuit at the consumer unit first and check the socket is dead before loosening the screws, since you'll be working close to live terminals. Retighten the faceplate once the tile is in place and only turn the power back on afterwards.
SB-07Seal the edgesRun a thin, even bead of sanitary silicone sealant along the joint where the splashback meets the worktop, and along any exposed edges next to the hob or sink. Smooth it with a wet finger for a neat finish and wipe away any excess straight away with a damp cloth.
SB-08Tidy up and leave to curePeel off the masking tape while the sealant is still fresh, and give the tiles a final wipe to remove any fingerprints or adhesive smears. Leave the sealant to cure for the time stated on the tube, usually around 24 hours, before wiping the splashback down or using the hob nearby, and avoid heavy steam or heat on it until it's fully cured.
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