Fit an L-shaped shower curtain rail to a solid brick or block wall

Mount an L-shaped shower curtain rail securely and level, checking safely before you drill.

SR-01Gather your tools and check the wallLay out your rail kit, drill, masonry bit, spirit level, pencil, tape measure and dust sheet. This guide covers solid brick or block walls only. If tapping the wall gives a dull, solid sound rather than a hollow one, you're on brick or block and the fixings below apply; if any part of the run is on a hollow or dot-and-dab wall, the drill depth and fixing type will need to change.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Pencil

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SR-02Plan and mark the rail positionDecide the height, usually around 2000mm from the floor so the curtain clears your head. Hold the rail sections in place and mark bracket positions on both walls and at the corner with a pencil, using a spirit level to keep the line true. Aim for a bracket roughly every 500-600mm along each run.

1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Tape measure

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SR-03Check for cables and pipes, and know your isolation pointsBathrooms often have cables for lighting, extractor fans or shaver sockets, and pipes for the shower and basin. Run a detector over every marked point, but still treat the wall as if something is there — detectors miss cables in metal conduit, behind metal-backed board, or deeper than expected. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns. If you have any doubt about what's behind a mark, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before drilling anywhere near a shower or basin pipe run.

SR-04Drill the first fixing holesIf drilling through tiles, start with a masonry bit at low speed and no hammer action to stop the tile cracking, then switch to hammer action once through the glaze into the brick or block. Drill to the depth stated on your wall plug packet, usually 5mm deeper than the plug length, using a bit matched to the plug size (typically 6mm or 7mm). Push the plug in flush and tap gently if needed.

1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm

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1 pack · Rawlplug wall plugs (pack of 10)

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SR-05Fix the first bracket and check it's levelScrew the first bracket to the wall using stainless steel screws, checking it sits level before fully tightening. Use this bracket as your reference and check the spirit level again after every second fixing along the run, since small errors add up over a long rail.

8 each · Stainless steel screws 40mm

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SR-06Fit the remaining brackets, including the cornerRepeat the drilling and fixing process for the rest of the brackets on both walls. At the corner, fit the corner bracket carefully so it lines up with both runs — use a straight edge or the rail itself held in place to check the angle before committing to the final fixing.

SR-07Assemble and fit the railSlot the two rail sections into the corner joint and offer the whole assembly up into the brackets. Tighten any grub screws or clamps in the brackets so the rail can't twist or slide along its length.

1 each · L-shaped shower curtain rail kit

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SR-08Hang the curtain and test the railThread the curtain rings or hooks onto the rail and hang your shower curtain. Pull gently along the whole length to check nothing flexes or pulls away from the wall, and re-tighten any fixing that feels loose.

1 pack · Shower curtain rings (pack of 12)

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SR-09Seal drilled points and tidy upIf any fixing holes are in or near tiled areas, run a thin bead of silicone sealant around the fixing to stop water getting behind the tile. Wipe down the area, vacuum up any dust, and turn the water back on at the stopcock if you turned it off earlier.

1 tube · Silicone sealant (bathroom grade)

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