Fit an L-shaped shower curtain rail to a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall

Fit an L-shaped shower rail level and secure over a bath or shower, checking what's behind the wall and any hidden pipes or cables first.

SR-01Plan the job and check your kitDecide where the rail will go - usually 1900-2000mm above the bath or shower tray, following the corner of the two walls. Unpack the kit and check you have both end brackets, the corner bracket, screws, and end caps. Measure both walls to make sure the rail will clear the taps, shower head, and any extractor grille.

1 each · L-shaped shower curtain rail kit

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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SR-02Work out what's behind each wallKnock along both walls - a solid, dull thud is brick or block behind plaster; dot-and-dab plasterboard sounds hollow in the middle of each panel but firmer every 300-450mm where the adhesive dabs sit, and it flexes slightly under thumb pressure. Run a stud detector or magnet along stud partitions - a magnet that sticks directly to the wall between fixing points usually means a metal stud frame, not timber. A small 2mm pilot hole tells you the rest: fine pale dust means timber, grey metallic swarf means steel, and a hollow feel past 12-15mm means dot-and-dab over a cavity. In an older bathroom, a bouncy wall with fine cracks in the plaster could be lath and plaster - fixings need to find the timber laths behind, not just the plaster skin.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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SR-03Check for pipes and cables before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a bathroom wall, not just in the usual safe zones, and cheap detectors can miss cables in metal conduit, behind foil-backed plasterboard, or through a metal stud frame. Use a detector on both walls, but still treat the area as live until you prove otherwise. Find your stopcock now - usually under the kitchen sink - and check it turns freely, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before drilling near any pipe run.

SR-04Mark and level the fixing pointsHold the corner bracket in place at your chosen height and mark through its fixing holes with a pencil. Use a spirit level to mark a level line out to each end bracket position, then hold each end bracket in place and mark its holes too. Double-check the rail will clear the shower head, taps, and any extractor grille before you drill anything.

1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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SR-05Drill and fix into a dot-and-dab wallDrill through the plasterboard first with a small bit to find the depth of the cavity behind - usually 20-50mm before you hit the masonry. Swap to a masonry bit and drill on through into the brick or block behind, to a total depth of about 65-70mm. Fit a long masonry frame fixing that spans the cavity and grips in the solid wall behind, then drive the screw home until the bracket pulls tight to the plasterboard without crushing it.

1 pack · Long masonry frame fixings 75mm (pack)

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1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm

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1 each · Combi drill/driver

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SR-06If the corner isn't dot-and-dab: fixings for other wall typesSolid brick or block: drill a 6mm hole 45-50mm deep, fit a standard wall plug, and drive in a 40-45mm screw. Plasterboard on timber studs: drill a 2mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud and drive in a 40mm wood screw directly - no plug needed. Plasterboard on metal studs: never use a wood screw or plain wall plug, it strips straight through 0.5mm steel - use a self-drilling metal stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the load instead. A shower rail gets pulled on constantly by the curtain, so a metal stud fixing alone is often not enough; where you can, fix through to the masonry behind, or fit a timber noggin between the studs first.

1 pack · Standard wall plugs (pack)

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1 pack · Wood screws 40mm (pack)

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1 pack · Self-drilling metal stud fixings (pack)

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SR-07Fix any point that falls between studsWhere a fixing point falls between studs rather than on one, use a plasterboard toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for at least the weight of the loaded rail and curtain, not the empty rail alone. Push the toggle through the drilled hole, let it open out behind the board, and tighten until snug - don't overtighten or you'll crush the plasterboard. Screw each bracket to the wall through its cover plate once every fixing point is secure.

1 pack · Plasterboard toggle fixings (pack)

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SR-08Assemble and fit the railSlot the two straight rail sections into the corner bracket and offer the whole assembly up to the end brackets. Check the rail is level along both walls and that the corner sits square, adjusting the brackets slightly if needed. Tighten every screw and cap fully once you're happy with the alignment.

SR-09Test the fixing before you trust itPull down and outward on the rail at several points along its length, the way a curtain and a steadying hand would. If anything moves, flexes, or sounds different under load, stop and refit that bracket with a stronger fixing, or add a noggin behind it, rather than trusting it as it is.

SR-10Seal and tidy upRun a thin bead of sanitary silicone around any fixing that passes through tiles, to stop water tracking behind them. Vacuum up masonry dust and plasterboard debris, and wipe down the tiles and bath or shower tray. Leave the silicone to cure for the time stated on the tube - usually 24 hours - before using the shower.

1 tube · Sanitary silicone sealant

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1 each · Dust sheet

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