Fit new handles when the hole spacing has changed

Swap kitchen cabinet handles with different hole spacing by filling old holes and drilling new ones accurately.

FH-01Take the doors and drawers offWork on doors and drawer fronts on a bench or table, not while they're hanging, so you get a flat, stable surface and don't mark the worktop. Unscrew the hinges from the cabinet carcass and lift each door away; slide drawers out and stand the fronts safely against a wall. Keep each door's screws together in a labelled bag or pot so nothing gets mixed up.

4 each · Small tubs or bags for screws

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FH-02Remove the old handlesUnscrew the handle from the back of the door or drawer front - most are held with two screws through the face. Support the front with your hand as the last screw comes out so it doesn't flex or crack. Set the old handles and screws aside in case you can reuse them elsewhere.

FH-03Fill the old screw holesPush wood filler or all-purpose filler into each old hole with a flexible filler knife, so it sits slightly proud. On laminated or vinyl-wrapped doors, pick a filler close to the surface colour, as you may not be able to paint over it neatly. Let it cure fully - check the tin for timing - before you touch it again.

1 tube · Wood or all-purpose filler

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1 each · Flexible filler knife

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FH-04Sand the filled holes flushSand each filled hole flush using fine abrasive paper, working with the grain or laminate pattern rather than across it. Wipe away the dust with a dry cloth. If a painted door still shows the repair, a light coat of matching paint or a touch-up pen will hide it.

1 sheet · Fine sandpaper (180-240 grit)

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FH-05Mark the new handle positionsMeasure the centre-to-centre hole spacing on the new handle in mm. Use a handle-fitting jig if you have one, or measure by hand and check the position from at least two edges so every handle sits straight and level. Mark each drill point with a bradawl or sharp pencil so the bit doesn't wander when you start drilling.

1 each · Handle-fitting jig (optional)

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1 each · Bradawl

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FH-06Drill the new holesFit a wood drill bit sized to the new handle's screw shank - usually 4-5mm, check the pack. Put masking tape over each drill point on the visible face, and back the door with a scrap of wood so the bit doesn't burst out and splinter the laminate as it exits. Drill slowly and steadily from the front, easing off pressure just as the bit breaks through the back.

1 each · Wood drill bit (4-5mm)

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1 roll · Masking tape

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1 each · Scrap wood for backing

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FH-07Check the screw length before fittingKitchen doors and drawer fronts vary in thickness, typically 16mm to 22mm, and some have a hollow honeycomb core rather than solid board. Hold each new screw against the door to check it will reach through cleanly without poking out the front, or coming up short in a hollow core with nothing to grip. If it's too long, trim it with a hacksaw or use the shorter screws sometimes included with the handle kit.

1 each · Hacksaw

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FH-08Fit the new handlesPush the screws through from the back and into the handle, tightening evenly so it pulls up flush and doesn't twist. Don't overtighten on laminate or vinyl-wrapped doors - this can crack the surface around the hole. Check each handle sits level by eye or with a small spirit level before moving to the next door.

10 each · New cabinet handles

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20 each · Handle fixing screws (if not supplied)

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FH-09Rehang doors and refit drawersScrew the hinges back onto the cabinet carcass and rehang each door, checking it closes square and doesn't catch on the doors next to it. Slide drawers back onto their runners and test they open and close smoothly. Adjust the hinge screws slightly if a door sits off-line.

FH-10Tidy up and check the finishSweep up drilling dust and offcuts, and wipe down doors and worktops with a damp cloth. Dispose of the old handles and screws, or box them up as spares. Stand back and check all the new handles line up at the same height along each run of cabinets.

1 each · Cloth

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