Fit out a built-in wardrobe with rails and shelves — HomeGraft

Fit a rail and shelves inside a wardrobe recess, working safely and choosing the right fixing for your wall type.

WD-01Measure the recess and plan your layoutMeasure the width, height and depth of the recess in several places - old walls are rarely square. Decide your rail height (usually 1600-1700mm from the floor for full-length hanging, or two rails at around 900mm and 1700mm for shorter items) and mark where shelves will go above it, typically 300-350mm apart. Sketch the layout with rough heights so you're not measuring on the fly later.

1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Notepad

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WD-02Gather your toolsYou'll need a drill driver, a stud and cable detector, a spirit level, a hacksaw for the rail, and screwdriver bits to match your fixings. Have a range of drill bits ready - masonry bits for brick or block, standard bits for wood, and any special bit needed for your metal-stud fixings.

1 each · Cordless drill driver

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1 each · Stud and cable detector

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1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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1 each · Hacksaw

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WD-03Work out what your walls are made ofRun a stud detector or magnet along the wall at rail and shelf height - a run of regular clicks or a magnet catching every 400-600mm means plasterboard on timber or metal studs. Tap the wall: solid brick or block sounds dull and solid all over, while a stud wall sounds hollow between the upright studs. If unsure, drill a small pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot - pale wood dust means a timber stud, fine grey metal swarf means a metal stud, and thick dust with no resistance change all the way through often means dot-and-dab plasterboard over solid masonry. Lath and plaster walls feel slightly springy and give a duller, softer knock than modern plasterboard, and are common in houses built before the 1930s.

WD-04Check for cables and pipes, and know how to isolate themBefore you drill anything, scan the whole fixing area with a cable and pipe detector - but treat it as a guide, not a guarantee. Detectors can miss cables that run deep, sit in metal conduit, are behind metal-backed plasterboard, or lie outside the usual safe zones, and a metal stud frame can confuse cheaper detectors further. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off instantly if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and know where the stopcock is before cutting into anything that could carry water.

WD-05Mark and fix the rail end bracketsMark the rail height on both side walls and check the marks are level with a spirit level. On solid brick or block, drill a 6mm hole 45mm deep, insert a wall plug, then drive a 40mm screw. On a timber stud, screw straight into the centre of the stud with a 40mm wood screw - no plug needed. On a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a hollow-wall toggle rated for the load - never a wood screw or plastic plug, which will strip straight through 0.5mm steel. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing long enough to pass through the board and adhesive dabs into the masonry behind, usually 60-75mm, so the weight sits on brick rather than plasterboard. On lath and plaster, drill a small pilot hole first and aim for a stud or timber batten behind the laths where possible, working slowly as the plaster is more brittle.

2 each · Rail end brackets

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1 pack · Wall plugs

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1 pack · Wood screws 40mm

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1 pack · Metal stud cavity fixings

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WD-06Cut and fit the hanging railMeasure the exact distance between the end brackets and cut the oval rail to length with a hacksaw, then file off any sharp burrs. Clip the rail into the end sockets. If the span is over 900mm, fit a centre support bracket to the back wall, using the same wall-type fixing method as step WD-05, to stop the rail sagging under a full load of clothes.

1 each · Oval wardrobe rail (2m)

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1 each · Centre support bracket

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WD-07Mark and fit the shelf support battensMark a level line on both side walls, and the back wall if you want continuous support, at each shelf height. Fix a 44x18mm timber batten along the line using the same fixing method for that wall type as in WD-05. On a stud wall, screw the batten into every stud it crosses rather than relying on a single cavity fixing - this spreads the load and gives a much stronger shelf.

1 each · Timber batten 44x18mm (2.4m)

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1 pack · Wood screws 40mm

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WD-08Cut and fit the shelvesMeasure the recess width and depth again at each shelf height, since older walls can bow. Cut the shelf board to size, or have it cut at the shop when you buy it, then sand any cut edges smooth. Lower each shelf onto its battens and check it sits level.

1 each · MFC shelf board (18mm, cut to size)

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1 each · Sandpaper

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WD-09Repeat for any additional shelvesRepeat the batten and shelf steps for each additional level in your plan. Keep checking each new shelf is level with the ones already fitted, and leave enough gap below the rail for hanging clothes to clear it.

WD-10Load test and final checksHang some clothes on the rail and check it doesn't sag or pull away from its brackets. Put some weight on each shelf and check it doesn't flex or lift off its battens. Nip up any fixings that feel loose.

WD-11Tidy upFill any stray pilot holes or gaps with filler, let it dry, then touch up the paint to match. Vacuum up sawdust and offcuts from the recess and floor before putting anything back inside.

1 each · Filler (tub)

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1 each · Paint touch-up (tester pot)

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1 each · Dust sheet

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