Fix a shelf that isn't level

Work out why a shelf is out of level, then refit it safely and dead level for your type of wall.

FS-01Check why the shelf isn't levelPut your spirit level along the top of the shelf and check both ends, then check each bracket on its own. A shelf can go out of level because one bracket has worked loose, one fixing has started to pull out of the wall, or the brackets were never fitted level in the first place. Decide whether you just need to re-tighten and reposition one bracket, or take the whole thing down and start again.

FS-02Clear and remove the shelfTake everything off the shelf so it's light and easy to handle. Support the shelf with one hand and undo the bracket screws with a screwdriver, working slowly so nothing drops. Keep the old screws and plugs to one side so you can see what was used before.

FS-03Work out what's behind the wallRun a stud detector along the wall where the brackets were, or drag a strong magnet across it to find screw heads under plasterboard. Knock the wall between the old fixing points: a dull, solid thud usually means solid brick or block, or dot-and-dab plasterboard over masonry, while a hollow sound means a stud wall. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot to check further: timber dust means a timber stud, fine grey swarf means a metal stud, and metal studs are common in flats, new builds, and anywhere refitted since the 1990s. Lath and plaster feels slightly springy and gives a lower, softer knock than brick.

1 each · Stud detector (if you don't already own one)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

FS-04Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the usual zones near sockets. Sweep a cable and pipe detector over the whole area, then still treat the wall as if something is there until you've proved otherwise, since detectors miss cables that are deep, boxed in metal conduit, behind metal-backed plasterboard, or hidden by a metal stud frame. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you're at all unsure, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

FS-05Mark a new, properly level lineHold the spirit level where the shelf will sit and draw a light pencil line right across, checking the bubble at both ends before you commit. Mark the exact bracket positions on this line, keeping them the same height apart as the shelf's fixing holes. Double-check the line with the level one more time before you pick up the drill.

FS-06Fit the right fixing for your wall typeInto solid brick or block, drill a 6mm hole 40mm deep with a masonry bit, push in a wall plug, and drive a 40mm screw in until it's snug. Into a timber stud, drill a 3mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud and drive a 40mm wood screw straight in with no plug, never near the edge of the stud where it can split. Into a metal stud, never use a plain wall plug or wood screw, as it will strip straight through the 0.5mm steel; use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the shelf's weight instead. Through dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing at least 75mm long that reaches through the board, across the air gap, and into the masonry behind, or a heavy-duty dot-and-dab toggle fixing if you can't reach the masonry. Into lath and plaster, use a spring toggle rather than a plug, as the old plaster crumbles easily and a rigid fixing can crack it.

1 pack · Wall plugs, red 6mm (pack of 10)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Wood screws, 40mm (pack of 10)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

4 each · Self-drilling metal stud fixings

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

4 each · Spring toggle or hollow-wall anchors

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

4 each · Long fixings for dot-and-dab, 75mm

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

FS-07Refit the brackets and shelfScrew the brackets onto the wall using the new marks and fixings, tightening evenly so neither side sits higher than the other. Lift the shelf back onto the brackets and check it with the spirit level along its whole length. If it's still slightly out, loosen just the low side and adjust before fully tightening again.

FS-08Fill old holes and tidy upFill any old, unused screw holes with a small amount of filler, pushing it in flush with a filling knife. Leave it to dry, then lightly sand it smooth once it's fully hard. Wipe down the wall and shelf, sweep up any dust, and pop your things back on the shelf.

1 tub · Multi-purpose filler (small tub)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 sheet · Fine sandpaper, 120 grit

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides