Replace a snapped wardrobe rail

Swap a broken wardrobe rail for a new one, matching the fixing to your wall so it holds properly.

WR-01Clear the wardrobe and check the damageTake everything off the rail and out of the wardrobe. Look at where the rail has snapped and check the end sockets for cracks or pulled-out screws. Lay a dust sheet on the floor to catch screws and dust.

1 each · Dust sheet

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WR-02Work out what's behind the wallIf the rail sockets fix into the wardrobe side panels, you're drilling into board or timber, not the wall. If they fix into the actual wall (common in alcove wardrobes), use a stud detector to check for a timber or metal stud pattern, or run a magnet along the wall to find screw heads holding plasterboard to a metal frame. A dull thud when you knock is solid masonry or dot-and-dab; a hollow sound is a stud wall or lath and plaster.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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WR-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere behind a wall, even away from sockets and switches. Use a detector, but still treat the wall as if something is there until you've drilled a shallow test hole and checked what comes out. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and make sure it turns before you start, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you're at all unsure, turn off the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

WR-04Remove the broken rail and old socketsUnscrew the old end sockets and lift the broken rail sections out. Keep the old screws so you can match fixing sizes later. If a socket comes away with a chunk of plasterboard, don't worry, you'll patch the hole with a new fixing.

WR-05Measure and cut the new railMeasure the gap between the sockets and buy a wardrobe rail of the same diameter (usually 25mm oval or round). Mark the length and cut it with a hacksaw, then file the cut end smooth so it doesn't snag clothes.

1 each · Wardrobe rail, 25mm oval, cut to length

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1 each · Hacksaw

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1 each · Metal file

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WR-06Fit the new end sockets for your wall typeSolid brick or block: drill 6mm holes 35mm deep, insert wall plugs, and use 6 x 40mm screws. Plasterboard on timber studs: find the centre of the stud and use a 5 x 40mm wood screw straight into it. Plasterboard on metal studs: never use a wood screw or plastic plug, they strip straight through 0.5mm steel; use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing rated for the socket's pull. Dot-and-dab: use a long fixing (60-75mm) that passes through the plasterboard and dab into the solid masonry behind. Lath and plaster: use a spring toggle or hollow-wall anchor that spans the laths, as a screw straight into old lath will crack the plaster.

4 each · Wall plugs, brown 6mm

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4 each · Wood screws No.8 x 40mm

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2 each · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

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2 each · Frame fixings 75mm (for dot-and-dab)

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2 each · Spring toggle fixings

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WR-07Fit a centre support if the rail is longIf the rail is longer than about 900mm, fit a centre support bracket to stop it sagging under a full load of clothes. Fix it using the same rules as WR-06 for your wall type. A metal stud alone won't hold a heavily loaded rail long-term; if in doubt, fix into a timber noggin or the masonry behind.

1 each · Centre support bracket

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WR-08Refit the rail and test itClick the rail into both end sockets and the centre support if fitted. Hang a few heavy items on it and give it a firm downward tug to check nothing moves or pulls away from the wall.

WR-09Tidy upSweep up any dust or plaster bits from drilling. Wipe down the wardrobe and rail before putting your clothes back. Recycle the old metal rail at a scrap or household recycling point rather than the bin.

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