Fit wire supports for climbing plants to an exterior brick wall

Fit sturdy wire supports for climbing plants on brick, with safe drilling and secure masonry fixings.

CP-01Plan the wire run and mark fixing pointsDecide how high and how far apart you want the horizontal wires — 300mm to 450mm apart works for most climbers. Use a spirit level to mark a straight line across the wall in pencil, then mark a fixing point every 1.5m to 2m along each line so the wire doesn't sag. Keep fixings at least 100mm from window and door reveals for a clean run.

1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Tape measure

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CP-02Check for hidden cables and pipes before you drillExterior walls can hide alarm cables, satellite or aerial wiring, and waste pipes running to outside soil stacks, not just the cables you'd expect indoors. Run a detector over every mark, but still treat the wall as if something is there until you've drilled a shallow test hole and checked what comes out. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you start, and if you have any doubt, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

CP-03Drill and plug the brick at each fixing pointUse a 6mm masonry bit for standard brick plugs and drill straight and level to a depth of 40-50mm, stopping to clear dust as you go. Blow or brush the dust out of the hole, then push in a matching 6mm masonry plug flush with the surface. If your wall is soft or old lime mortar, drill into the brick itself rather than the mortar joint for a stronger hold.

RULES

1 each · Masonry drill bit, 6mm

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20 each · Masonry wall plugs, 6mm

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1 each · Safety glasses

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1 each · Dust mask

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KNOW THE RULES

If your property is listed or in a conservation area, altering the brickwork or render (including drilling fixings into the front elevation) can need listed building consent. Check with your local council before you start if you're unsure.

CP-04Fit the vine eyesScrew each vine eye into its plug by hand or with a screwdriver through the eye, turning until it's fully home and doesn't spin. Turn the eye so its loop faces along the line of the wire run, not out from the wall, so the wire sits straight. Check each one is firm with a gentle pull before moving on.

1 pack · Screw-in masonry vine eyes (pack of 10)

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CP-05Thread and cut the wireUnroll galvanised wire along the run, adding an extra 300mm at each end for tensioning and fixing off. Thread it through each vine eye in turn, keeping it as straight as you can. Cut with pliers or wire cutters once you've checked the length reaches every eye with enough spare.

1 roll · Galvanised wire, 2mm x 20m

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1 each · Wire cutters/pliers

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CP-06Tension and secure the wireAt one end, wrap the wire tightly around the vine eye and twist it back on itself two or three times to lock it off. At the other end, fit a straining bolt or wire tensioner so you can pull the wire taut without overtightening — it should be firm to the touch, not guitar-string tight. Recheck tension after a week, since new wire settles slightly.

1 pack · Wire straining bolts/tensioners (pack of 4)

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CP-07Tidy up and check your workSweep up brick dust and offcuts of wire from the ground below. Give each fixing point a firm tug to check nothing has moved. Once you're happy, you can start training climbing stems onto the wire straight away.

1 each · Dustpan and brush

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