Fit worktop end caps and edging strip

Fit new end caps and iron-on edging strip to a laminate worktop for a neat, sealed finish in one sitting.

WE-01Gather your tools and match the finishYou need a household iron, a sharp craft knife, a fine file, 120 and 240 grit sandpaper, a clean cloth, masking tape, and contact adhesive if your end cap isn't pre-glued. Take a cut-off of the old edging or a photo of the worktop colour and grain to the shop so the new strip and cap match closely. Check the end cap is sized for your worktop depth (usually 600mm) and thickness (usually 38mm).

1 each · Iron-on laminate edging strip (2m roll)

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1 each · Laminate worktop end cap

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1 each · Contact adhesive (small tube)

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1 each · Craft knife

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1 each · Fine file

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2 sheet · Sandpaper, 120 and 240 grit

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WE-02Protect the worktop and clear the spaceMove anything off the worktop and unplug nearby appliances such as the kettle or toaster. Lay an old towel or dust sheet over the hob and sink to catch offcuts and dust. Plug in the iron nearby so it's heating while you prep the edge.

1 each · Old towel or dust sheet

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WE-03Measure and cut the strip or cap to sizeFor edging strip, measure the exposed edge length and cut with about 20mm spare at each end for trimming later. For an end cap, measure the worktop depth and thickness before cutting anything, as most caps come pre-sized and just need trimming flush. Cut edging strip with sharp scissors or a craft knife on a flat surface.

WE-04Remove any old edging or damaged capIf you're replacing existing edging, warm it gently with the iron on a low setting to soften the old adhesive, then peel it away by hand. Scrape off any leftover glue with the edge of the craft knife, working away from your body. Don't gouge the laminate underneath.

WE-05Clean and sand the raw edgeWipe the bare edge with a damp cloth to remove dust and old glue residue, then let it dry fully. Lightly sand with 120 grit sandpaper to smooth any rough chipboard or splinters. The edge needs to be flat and dry before you fit anything new.

WE-06Iron on the edging stripSet the iron to a medium-low heat with no steam. Hold the strip glue-side down against the worktop edge and press the iron over it, sliding slowly along so each section gets 5 to 10 seconds of heat. Immediately press the melted section down firmly with a folded cloth to bond it before it cools, working along the whole length.

WE-07Fit the end capIf the cap is pre-glued, warm it with the iron the same way as the edging strip and press it firmly into place. If it isn't, apply a thin, even layer of contact adhesive to both surfaces, wait a minute for it to go tacky, then press the cap on firmly. Hold it with masking tape or a clamp for 10 to 15 minutes while it sets, checking it sits flush top and bottom.

WE-08Trim the overhangOnce everything has cooled and set, trim the overhanging edge with a sharp craft knife held flat against the worktop surface. Cut in one smooth, continuous stroke rather than sawing back and forth, and always cut away from your body.

WE-09File and sand the edge flushRun a fine file along the trimmed edge to bring it level with the worktop top and underside. Finish with 240 grit sandpaper for a smooth, snag-free edge you won't catch your hand on.

WE-10Clean up and check the sealWipe away all dust and glue residue with a damp cloth. Run a finger along the new joint to check for gaps, especially near the sink or hob where water could get in. If you find a small gap, run a thin bead of clear silicone sealant along it and smooth with a wet finger. Bin the offcuts and put your tools away.

1 tube · Clear silicone sealant

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