Cut, seal and bolt two worktop sections together, then cap the seam with a joint strip for a neat, waterproof finish.
JS-01Clear the area and check your kitLift off the worktop sections if already fitted, and lay dust sheets over the cabinets and floor. Gather a tape measure, try square, clamps, jigsaw or circular saw, spirit level and the joint strip kit. Check the strip length matches your worktop depth (usually 600mm) and that the connector bolts suit your worktop thickness (typically 38-40mm).
JS-02Mark the cut linesPosition both worktop pieces on the cabinets where they'll finally sit, and check the joint won't land over a cabinet leg or door hinge. Mark the cut line on the underside of each piece with a pencil, using a try square to keep it at 90° to the front edge. Mark the joint strip width (usually 25-30mm) too, so you know how much of each worktop it will cover.
JS-03Cut the worktops to lengthSupport the offcut end before cutting so it doesn't snap away and chip the laminate face. Cut from the underside using a fine-tooth jigsaw blade, or a circular saw with a straight edge guide, following your marked line. Wear eye protection and a dust mask, as laminate and chipboard dust is unpleasant to breathe. Sand the cut edge smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.
JS-04Seal the cut edgesSeal both cut edges with a worktop edging sealant or clear silicone before fitting. Unsealed chipboard swells and crumbles if water gets into the joint over time. Run a bead along the full length of each cut edge and smooth it in with a finger or sealant tool, then leave it to go tacky for a few minutes.
JS-05Dry-fit and level the worktopsFit both worktop sections back onto the cabinets with the joint lined up, and check the two surfaces sit flush across the join using a spirit level. Adjust cabinet legs, or slip thin packers under the worktop, if one side sits slightly high or low. Getting this right now stops the finished joint strip from rocking or sitting proud.
JS-06Pull the joint tightIf your worktops have pre-cut bolt housings underneath, fit worktop connector bolts and tighten them evenly, working side to side rather than fully tightening one end first, so the joint pulls together without twisting out of line. If there are no bolt housings, screw a 300mm batten of scrap timber across the underside of the joint into both worktops using 25mm screws, to hold the pieces flush and rigid. Recheck the top surfaces are still flush after tightening.
JS-07Seal and fit the joint stripRun a thin bead of silicone along the top edges of the joint before fitting the strip, to stop water sitting in the seam. Press the joint strip into place over the join and fix it down with the self-tapping screws supplied, driving into the worktop core to roughly half its depth - a 38mm worktop takes a screw around 15-18mm long. Wipe away any sealant that squeezes out before it cures.
1 each · Aluminium worktop joint strip (with fixing screws)
JS-08Refit and finishRefit any cabinet corner brackets and secure the worktop down onto the carcass with the original screws. Wipe the whole joint area clean, vacuum up sawdust, and remove the dust sheets. Check the strip sits flat with no rocking, and leave the sealant to cure fully - check the tube for time, usually around 24 hours - before heavy use.