Fix a creaking stair — HomeGraft

Stop stair treads creaking by re-fixing loose joints from above or underneath, then test and tidy up.

CS-01Find exactly where the creak isWalk up and down the stairs slowly, pressing on each tread with your hand as you go. Note whether the creak comes from the front edge, back, or side of a tread. Mark each creaking spot lightly with a pencil or a bit of masking tape so you can find it again.

1 each · Pencil

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1 roll · Masking tape

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CS-02Check whether you can get underneath the stairsLook for an understairs cupboard or an open soffit that lets you see the back of the treads. Fixing from underneath is neater because there's no filling or painting to match afterwards. If the stairs are fully boxed in with no access, you'll need to fix from the top instead.

1 each · Head torch or work light

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CS-03Get your tools and materials togetherYou'll need a drill/driver, a bradawl or pilot drill bit, screws, PVA wood glue, and either softwood wedges or a small glue block. Keep a filler knife and wood filler handy for finishing off if you're working from above.

1 each · Cordless drill/driver

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1 each · Bradawl

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1 250ml bottle · PVA wood glue

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10 each · Wood screws 4mm x 50mm

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CS-04Clear and protect the work areaIf you're working from above, lift the edge of the stair carpet or runner and pull back any gripper strip carefully so you don't damage it. Lay a dust sheet at the foot of the stairs. If the treads have old paint, work in a ventilated area and avoid heavy sanding, since older paint can contain lead.

1 each · Dust sheet

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CS-05Fix the joint from underneath, if you can reach itWith a torch, find the marked spot from below. Stairs are often held with timber wedges glued into the join between tread and riser — if a wedge has dropped out or come loose, coat it with PVA glue and tap it back in firmly. If there's no wedge, screw a small softwood glue block across the joint, using pilot holes first so the screws don't split the wood. If there's a consumer unit or visible wiring in the cupboard, keep well clear of it and don't drill anywhere near cables you can see.

2 each · Softwood wedge or glue block

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6 each · Wood screws 4mm x 37mm

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CS-06Fix a creaking tread from above, if there's no access belowAt the marked spot, drill a pilot hole angled down through the tread into the riser or stringer behind it. Drive a 50mm screw through and countersink the head just below the surface. Repeat at any other marked points on the same tread. If there's a visible gap between tread and riser, run a bead of wood glue into it first with a filler knife before screwing.

4 each · Wood screws 4mm x 50mm

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1 each · Filler knife

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CS-07Try a quick surface fix for a slight creakIf the creak is faint and just down to timber rubbing on timber, work French chalk or talcum powder into the joint between tread and riser with a flexible knife or old credit card. This lubricates the rubbing surfaces without any drilling or screws, and is a good option if you don't want to disturb carpet or paintwork.

1 tub · French chalk or talcum powder

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CS-08Fill, sand and touch upOnce glue has cured (check the tin, usually a few hours), fill any screw holes with wood filler matching the stair colour. Leave it to dry fully, then sand it flush with fine sandpaper. Touch up with matching paint or varnish if the repair is on show.

1 small tub · Wood filler

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1 sheet · Fine sandpaper

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1 small tin · Matching paint or varnish

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CS-09Test the stairs and tidy upWalk up and down several times, pressing on each repaired tread to check the creak has gone. Refit the carpet or runner and any gripper strip you lifted. Vacuum up dust and dispose of any offcuts.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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