Fix a leaking shower screen — HomeGraft

Diagnose the leak, reseal or refit the shower screen, and choose the right wall fixing safely if a bracket needs re-fixing.

FSS-01Diagnose the leakRun the shower with the screen closed and watch where water escapes — along the screen-to-tray joint, the screen-to-wall joint, through the hinges, or under a worn wipe or magnetic seal. Check the sealant for cracks, gaps or black mould, and gently push the screen to see if it rocks. This tells you whether you need new sealant, a new seal strip, or firmer wall fixings.

FSS-02Prepare the areaTurn off the shower and let everything dry fully, ideally overnight. Lay old towels along the tray and floor to protect them, and open a window or run the extractor fan. Get your tools and materials ready before you start so you're not hunting for things halfway through.

FSS-03Remove the old sealantCut along both edges of the old bead with a sharp knife or dedicated sealant-removal tool, then peel it away in strips. Scrape off any leftover residue with a plastic scraper so you don't scratch the tray or screen. Use a proprietary sealant remover on stubborn bits, following the label instructions.

1 each · Sealant removal tool

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1 each · Plastic scraper

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1 bottle · Sealant remover solution

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FSS-04Clean and dry the jointWipe the whole joint with isopropyl alcohol on a lint-free cloth to remove grease, soap scum and mould. Let it dry completely — a damp joint stops new sealant sticking properly. Leave it a few hours, or overnight if you can.

1 bottle · Isopropyl alcohol (250ml)

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1 pack · Lint-free cloths

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FSS-05Check hinges and bracketsTighten every visible screw on the hinges and wall brackets with the correct screwdriver. Check the screen with a spirit level — it should sit plumb and not rock when you push the top corner gently. If a screw just spins without tightening, the fixing behind it has failed and needs replacing.

1 each · Screwdriver set

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1 each · Spirit level

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FSS-06Check for cables and pipes, then find your wall typeBefore you drill anywhere near the bracket, run a detector over the area — but still assume a cable or pipe is there and prove otherwise, because tiles, metal-backed board and deep cables all fool cheap detectors. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe; if there's any doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit and turn off the water at the stopcock before drilling. To work out the wall type, tap gently near the fixing: a dull, solid sound usually means brick or block behind the tile, while a hollow sound means a stud wall or dot-and-dab plasterboard. A magnet or stud detector tracking a line of screw heads shows a timber or metal frame; a tiny pilot hole in the grout line bringing out timber dust means timber studs, and fine grey swarf means metal studs.

1 each · Stud and cable/pipe detector

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FSS-07Fit the right fixing for your wallFor solid brick or block behind the tile, drill with a masonry bit sized to your wall plug (commonly 6mm), fit the plug, and drive in a 40mm screw. For plasterboard on timber studs, find the stud centre and drive a 40mm wood screw straight into it — never rely on plasterboard alone, because a shower screen pulls on its fixings every time it's opened and closed. For plasterboard on metal studs, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the load — never a plastic plug or ordinary wood screw, which strip straight through 0.5mm steel; if the point takes real strain, a timber noggin fitted behind the board is a better fix. For dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing long enough to pass through the void and grip the masonry behind, usually 60-75mm, and for lath and plaster, aim for a timber lath or added noggin rather than the brittle plaster.

1 each · Masonry drill bit, 6mm

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1 pack · Wall plugs (pack)

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1 pack · Wood screws, 40mm (pack)

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1 pack · Metal-stud toggle fixings (pack)

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1 pack · Dot-and-dab long fixing (pack)

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FSS-08Replace a worn seal strip if fittedIf water was coming through the hinge or wipe seal rather than the sealant, pull out the old strip and measure its length and profile. Buy an exact replacement from the screen manufacturer where possible, or a close-matching generic strip from a bathroom supplier. Trim it to length with sharp scissors and press it firmly into the channel along its full length.

1 metre · Replacement shower screen seal strip

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FSS-09Refit the screen and check alignmentRefit the screen onto its brackets or hinges and check it sits plumb with a spirit level. Open and close it a few times to check it doesn't catch, rock or pull at its fixings. Leave an even gap along the tray and wall, ready for sealant.

FSS-10Apply a new bead of sealantRun masking tape along both sides of the joint, leaving the gap you want to fill. Apply a continuous bead of sanitary silicone sealant, tool it smooth with a wet finger or sealant tool, then remove the tape while the sealant is still wet.

1 roll · Masking tape (low-tack)

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1 tube · Sanitary silicone sealant

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1 each · Sealant gun

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FSS-11Leave to cure before using the showerCheck the sealant tube for its cure time — most sanitary silicones need at least 24 hours before contact with water. Keep the shower dry and unused for this time. Once cured, run the shower and check the joint stays dry.

FSS-12Tidy upBin the old sealant strips, offcuts and packaging. Wipe down tools before any leftover sealant sets on them, and give the shower a final wipe over. Store any spare fixings and sealant for next time.

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