Fit a walk-in shower screen panel to a solid brick or block wall

Mark, drill and fix a shower screen panel securely, then seal the edges for a watertight finish.

SS-01Clear the area and check the kitEmpty the bath or shower area and lay down a dust sheet or old towels. Unpack the screen and lay out every bracket, screw, plug and seal so you can check nothing is missing against the fitting instructions. Have a helper on hand for later — glass panels are heavy and awkward for one person.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Shower screen panel kit (with brackets and fixings)

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SS-02Confirm the wall is solid brick or blockThis guide is for solid masonry only. Tap the wall — solid brick or block sounds dull and firm all over, not hollow in patches. If any part sounds hollow or a test hole brings up plasterboard dust rather than brick or block, stop — you have a stud or dot-and-dab wall and need different fixings, not the ones in this guide.

SS-03Mark the fixing line and check what's behind the wallHold the wall channel or bracket in place and use a spirit level to mark the fixing holes dead vertical and level with the shower tray. Before you drill, run a cable and pipe detector over the marked line — but still treat the wall as if something could be there, since detectors miss cables in metal conduit or run deep behind tiles. Find your stopcock now (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what's behind the marks, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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1 each · Pencil

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SS-04Drill through the tile and into the masonryStick a strip of masking tape over each mark so the drill bit doesn't skid on the glaze. Use a tile bit at slow speed to break through the tile, then swap to a masonry bit sized to your plug — typically an 8mm bit for an 8mm plug — and drill to at least 40mm into solid brick or block. Blow or vacuum the dust out of each hole before fitting the plug, as a dusty hole grips poorly.

1 roll · Masking tape

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1 each · Tile drill bit (8mm)

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1 each · Masonry drill bit (8mm)

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6 each · Wall plugs (red, 8mm, for masonry)

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SS-05Fix the wall channel or bracketsPush a plug into each hole until it sits flush. Screw the wall channel or bracket on firmly, checking level again as you go — don't rely on the marks alone. If the wall is slightly uneven, use the packers supplied in the kit behind the channel rather than over-tightening, which can crack the tile.

6 each · Screws (supplied with kit)

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SS-06Fit the glass panel into the channelWith your helper, lift the panel carefully by its edges and lower it into the wall channel or bracket. Engage the clamp or hinge fittings and tighten the bolts evenly, a little at a time on each one, so the panel doesn't twist. Check the panel is plumb with the spirit level before fully tightening.

1 each · Allen key or spanner (usually supplied)

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SS-07Secure the base to the shower tray or floorFit the floor bracket or clamp as shown in the manufacturer's instructions. Use the packers or shims supplied to take up any unevenness in the tray so the panel sits level, then tighten fully. Check the panel doesn't rock or flex at the base before moving on.

SS-08Seal the edgesRun masking tape either side of every joint between the glass, the wall and the tray for a crisp line. Apply a neat, continuous bead of sanitary silicone sealant along each joint, smooth it with a wet finger or sealant tool, then peel the tape off straight away. Leave the sealant to cure for the time stated on the tube — usually 24 hours — before using the shower.

1 tube · Sanitary silicone sealant

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1 roll · Masking tape

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SS-09Test and tidy upOnce the sealant has fully cured, run the shower briefly and check for any drips at the wall or floor joints. Wipe down the glass and tiles, remove the dust sheet, and vacuum up any tile or masonry dust from the floor.

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