Fix a sagging garden gate

Diagnose why your gate sags, fix loose hinges or a racked frame, then fit a brace to stop it recurring.

GT-01Work out what's actually wrongOpen and close the gate a few times. If it drags on the ground or won't latch, check three things: the hinges (loose screws, worn pin), the frame (has it gone from a square shape to a rhombus — this is called 'racking'), and the post (does it wobble when you push it side to side?). Hold a spirit level along the top rail to see if the whole gate has dropped on the latch side rather than just the hinges failing.

1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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1 each · Tape measure

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GT-02Support the gate before you touch a screwProp the open corner of the gate level using a wood offcut or a stack of bricks, or get someone to hold it steady. This takes the weight off the hinges while you work, so the frame doesn't twist further or drop suddenly when you remove a screw.

1 each · Timber offcut or bricks (for propping)

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GT-03Remove and inspect the hingesUndo the top hinge first, then the bottom, using a screwdriver or drill/driver. If screws are rusted solid, spray with penetrating oil and leave for 10 minutes before trying again. Check the hinge pin for wear and look closely at the screw holes in both the gate and the post — if they're enlarged, split, or crumbly, note this for the next step.

1 can · Penetrating oil spray

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GT-04Repair worn or rotten screw holesIf a screw hole has gone oversized, glue a wooden dowel (cut from a spare batten, roughly 8mm diameter) into the hole and let it dry fully, then you can drill a fresh pilot hole in solid wood. For smaller damage, pack the hole with a two-part exterior wood filler and leave to cure per the tin's instructions — usually a few hours. If the post itself is soft or crumbly at the hinge point, that's rot, and this repair won't hold long-term; the post will need a metal repair spur or replacing, which is a separate job.

1 tube · Exterior wood filler (2-part)

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1 each · Timber dowel offcut, 8mm

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GT-05Fit the hinges back onHold the gate level with a spirit level before you drive a single screw. Drill a 3mm pilot hole at each fixing point to stop old or dry timber splitting. Use screws at least as long as the originals — for a standard T-hinge on a gate frame, 8-gauge x 50mm exterior wood screws are typical, but use 10mm x 75mm coach screws into the post if the hinge is a heavy-duty type.

1 pair · T-hinges (pair, heavy duty)

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1 box · Exterior wood screws, 8g x 50mm

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4 each · Coach screws, 10mm x 75mm

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GT-06Fit a diagonal brace if the frame has rackedIf the gate has gone out of square rather than the hinges just being loose, fit an anti-sag brace kit — a diagonal turnbuckle rod running from the top hinge corner to the bottom latch corner. Screw the end brackets to the frame, thread the rod through, and tighten the turnbuckle until the gate pulls back square. Check both diagonals with a tape measure — they should match within a few mm.

1 each · Gate anti-sag brace/turnbuckle kit

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GT-07Adjust the latch and test the swingWith the gate square again, the latch keep on the post will likely need moving to line up. Unscrew it, reposition it, and fill the old screw holes with filler. Swing the gate fully open and shut several times to make sure it doesn't catch the ground, the post, or drag on paving.

1 each · Gate latch/keep (if worn)

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GT-08Treat bare wood and tidy upAny bare timber you've exposed by drilling, filling, or cutting new dowels needs a coat of exterior wood preservative to stop rot starting. Pay particular attention to the base of the post and the hinge area. Sweep up old screws, rusty offcuts, and packaging, and take worn-out hinges to a scrap or household waste point.

1 litre · Exterior wood preservative

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