HANGING & WALL MOUNTING

Hang a gallery wall of frames on a metal stud wall

Plan your layout, work out your wall type safely, then fix each frame securely without hitting a cable or pipe.

GW-01Plan the layout on paperCut sheets of newspaper or lining paper to the exact size of each frame. Lay the paper templates on the floor and arrange them until you're happy, leaving 50-100mm between each one. Tape the templates together loosely so the layout holds its shape, and take a photo as a record before you touch the wall.
1 pack · Lining paper or newspaper sheets
1 roll · Masking tape
1 each · Pencil
1 each · Tape measure
GW-02Mark the layout on the wallMark the position of the top-left frame with a pencil dot, checked with a spirit level. Draw a faint horizontal guideline across the wall at roughly 1500-1600mm from the floor, using a spirit level or laser level to keep it true. Tape your paper templates to the wall in position, checking gaps with a tape measure, then mark the exact centre point of each hanging fixing through the paper.
1 each · Spirit level
1 each · Laser level (optional, for larger walls)
GW-03Work out what's behind the wallRun a stud detector or a small magnet across the marked points to pick up the line of screw heads that fix plasterboard to the frame; evenly spaced screws roughly 300-600mm apart mean a stud wall. Tap the wall — a dull thud means solid masonry or dot-and-dab, a hollow sound between studs means a stud wall. If you're still unsure, drill a 2mm pilot hole at one mark: pale wood dust means a timber stud, fine grey swarf means a metal stud, and thick powdery dust with no fibres means masonry or dot-and-dab. Metal stud walls are common in flats, new-build houses and anything refitted since the 1990s.
1 each · Stud detector or small magnet
1 each · Drill with 2mm bit
GW-04Drill and fix into a timber or metal studBefore you drill, remember cables and pipes can run almost anywhere — a detector helps but can miss cables that are deep, in conduit, or behind metal-backed board, and metal stud frames confuse cheap detectors further. Find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns; if in any doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling. For a timber stud, drill a 2mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud and drive a 40mm wood screw or picture hook straight in, no plug needed. For a metal stud, never use a plastic wall plug or a plain wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel — use a self-drilling metal-stud anchor or a toggle-type hollow-wall fixing rated for at least double the frame's weight, and if a frame is heavy or likely to be knocked, fit a timber noggin between the studs first, since a metal stud alone won't hold weight that pulls away from the wall.
1 pack · Wood screws 40mm (pack)
1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud anchors (pack)
1 each · Timber noggin off-cut 45x45mm
1 pack · Picture hooks (pack of 20)
GW-05Drill and fix into masonry, dot-and-dab, or lath and plasterCables and pipes also run through masonry walls, especially near sockets, so keep checking with your detector and be ready to turn the water off at the stopcock if you're working anywhere near a pipe run. For solid brick or block, drill a 6mm hole 35mm deep with a masonry bit, insert a 6mm x 30mm wall plug, and drive a 30-40mm screw or hook. For dot-and-dab plasterboard, the board sits 25-50mm off the masonry on foam adhesive dabs, so use a long fixing — a 60-75mm frame fixing or plug-and-screw combination — that passes through the board and dabs to bite into the solid wall behind. For lath and plaster, the old timber laths are thin and crumble easily, so locate a timber stud behind with your detector and screw into that, or use a fixing designed for lath and plaster rather than relying on the plaster itself.
1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm
1 pack · Wall plugs 6x30mm (pack)
1 pack · Screws 30-40mm (pack)
1 pack · Long frame fixings 60-75mm (pack)
GW-06Hang the framesHang each frame on its fixing, working from the centre of the layout outward. Check each frame with a spirit level and adjust the wire or hook slightly until it sits straight. Step back regularly to check the overall gallery looks balanced before moving on to the next frame.
GW-07Fine-tune and finishAdjust spacing between frames if anything looks crowded or uneven, moving a fixing a few millimetres by re-drilling nearby if needed. Push any exposed fixing heads flush and touch up small marks with matching filler and a dab of paint if required. Take a final photo for your records.
1 tube · Fine surface filler
1 small pot · Matching touch-up paint
GW-08Tidy upVacuum plaster dust, wood dust or metal swarf from the floor and skirting, and wipe down the wall. Dispose of offcuts and packaging, and store any spare fixings in a labelled bag for next time.
1 each · Dust sheet

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides