Hang a gallery wall of frames on a timber stud wall — HomeGraft

Plan, mark and hang a gallery wall of frames safely and dead level in one session.

GW-01Cut paper templates and plan the layoutTrace round each frame onto brown paper or newspaper and cut it out, so you have a life-size stand-in for every frame. Lay the templates on the floor and shuffle them into a pleasing arrangement before touching the wall. Leave 50-100mm between frames for a gallery look, and centre the whole group roughly at eye level, around 1450-1500mm from the floor to the middle of the group.

1 roll · Brown paper roll or newspaper

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1 roll · Masking tape

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1 each · Scissors

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1 each · Tape measure

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GW-02Tape the templates to the wall and check it before drillingTape the paper templates to the wall in your chosen layout and stand back from a distance to check spacing and height. Use a spirit level or laser level to true up the top edges across the group, not just one frame. Mark the exact hanging point on each template with a pencil dot, then poke a small hole through the paper at that point so you can transfer it to the wall.

1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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1 each · Laser level (optional)

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1 each · Pencil

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GW-03Work out what the wall is actually made ofTap the wall at each marked point. A dull, solid knock means brick, block, or dot-and-dab over masonry. A hollow, drum-like sound means plasterboard on a stud wall, or a springy, uneven sound with slight movement means old lath and plaster. Run a stud detector or a strong magnet across the area in a grid pattern to find the timber or metal upright behind the board — a magnet will stick to metal stud track and to the screw heads fixing the board to timber studs.

1 each · Stud detector

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1 each · Strong magnet

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GW-04Confirm timber or metal stud, and check for cables and pipesIf you need to fix into a stud, drill a small 2-3mm pilot hole and pull the drill bit out to check the dust. Pale dust with fine wood curls means timber; fine, grey, glittery swarf means metal stud. Cables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the usual safe zones, and a detector can miss cables that are deep, in conduit, or behind metal-backed board — treat every wall as live until you prove otherwise. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns, so you can shut the water off instantly if you hit a pipe; if you have any doubt about what is behind the wall, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before you drill.

1 each · Drill with 2-3mm bit

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GW-05Fit the right fixing for your wall typeOn solid brick or block, drill with a 6mm masonry bit to 40mm depth, fit a 6mm wall plug, and use a 40mm No.8 screw. On plasterboard over TIMBER studs, drive a 40mm wood screw straight into the centre of the stud with no plug needed. On plasterboard over METAL studs, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a hollow-wall toggle rated for the frame's weight — never a plastic plug or an ordinary wood screw, as these strip straight through 0.5mm steel. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing long enough to pass through the board and the adhesive dabs and bite into the masonry behind, typically 60-75mm long. On lath and plaster, use a spring or self-drilling cavity toggle rated for the frame's weight, as the old lath can crumble around a plug.

1 each · Masonry drill bit (6mm)

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10 each · Wall plugs (6mm)

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10 each · Wood screws (40mm No.8)

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10 each · Metal-stud self-drilling fixings

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10 each · Hollow-wall toggle fixings

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10 each · Long masonry fixings for dot-and-dab (65mm)

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GW-06Drill, fit the fixing, and hang the first frameDrill through your marked point using the correct bit and depth for the wall type identified in the last step. Fit the wall plug, toggle, or drive the screw home, leaving enough of the screw head or hook protruding to take the frame's hanging wire or D-ring. Hang the first frame — ideally the centre or largest piece — and check it with a spirit level before moving on.

1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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GW-07Hang the rest, then stand back and true it upWork outward from the first frame, checking level and spacing against your paper templates as you go. Stand back every two or three frames to check the group reads well as a whole, not just each frame individually. Adjust gaps slightly by eye if the templates leave the layout looking too mechanical — small variations of 5-10mm rarely show once frames are up.

GW-08Tidy up and remove the templatesPeel off any remaining paper templates and masking tape once every frame is hung and level. Vacuum up plaster or wood dust from the floor and skirting below your working area. Bag up offcuts and packaging, and store any spare fixings in a labelled bag for future use.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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1 each · Small storage bag for spare fixings

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