Hang a replacement radiator on a solid brick or block wall

Swap out an old radiator for a new one on a solid brick or block wall, safely and level.

RAD-01Prepare the room and turn off the heatingTurn the heating off and let the old radiator cool for at least an hour before you touch it. Lay dust sheets under and around the radiator, and fold back any carpet edges. Have your new radiator on hand and check its pipe centres match the old one before you start.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · New radiator (matching pipe centres)

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RAD-02Isolate the radiator valvesClose the wheel valve fully, then close the lockshield valve at the other end using a spanner or valve key. Count and note how many turns it takes to close the lockshield, so you can set it back to the same position later. This stops water in the rest of the system flowing into the radiator you're removing.

1 each · Radiator valve key

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RAD-03Drain the radiatorPlace a bucket under one of the tail connections, then loosen the union nut with a spanner while opening the top bleed valve with a bleed key to let air in. Water will run out steadily, so keep emptying the bucket. A standard double radiator holds several litres, so allow a few minutes for it to drain fully.

1 each · Bleed key

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1 each · Bucket or shallow tray

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RAD-04Disconnect and remove the old radiatorOnce it's fully drained, undo both tail connections completely and lift the radiator off its wall brackets. Radiators are heavy and awkward on your own, so get a second person to help if you can. Stand it on old towels to catch any last drips.

RAD-05Remove the old brackets and confirm the wall typeUnscrew the old wall brackets. This guide is for solid brick or block walls, where the brackets fix straight into masonry behind the plaster. If the wall sounds hollow when you tap it, or a detector picks up a regular line of screw heads, you have a stud or dot-and-dab wall instead, and these fixings won't hold a radiator safely — you need a different method.

RAD-06Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in obvious straight lines. Use a cable and pipe detector over the area first, then still treat the wall as if something is there — detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind thick plaster. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt, isolate the nearby circuit at the consumer unit before you drill.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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RAD-07Mark and measure the new bracket positionsHold the new brackets against the wall, using the radiator's pipe centres to set the correct height and spacing. Use a spirit level to check the marks are level with each other before you drill anything — even a few millimetres out will show once the radiator is hung.

RAD-08Drill and fix the brackets into the brick or blockDrill 8mm holes to a depth of 50-60mm using a masonry bit, then vacuum out the dust — a blocked hole weakens the fixing. Insert 8mm wall plugs and fix the brackets with 60-75mm screws, tightening firmly but not so hard you crack the plug. Wear eye protection while drilling.

1 each · Masonry drill bit 8mm

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4 each · Wall plugs 8mm (Rawlplug)

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4 each · Screws 60mm

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RAD-09Hang the radiator and check it's levelLift the new radiator onto the brackets and check it sits securely without rocking. Run a spirit level across the top edge and adjust the brackets slightly if it's not sitting true.

RAD-10Reconnect the valvesWrap PTFE tape clockwise around each tail thread, three or four turns, then reconnect the wheel valve and lockshield valve to the radiator tails. Tighten with a spanner until snug — overtightening can crack the valve body. Reset the lockshield to the same number of turns you noted earlier.

1 each · PTFE tape

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RAD-11Refill and bleed the radiatorSlowly open the wheel valve and lockshield valve to let water back into the radiator. Use a bleed key on the top valve to release trapped air, closing it as soon as water flows out steadily rather than air hissing. Check your boiler's pressure gauge and top up the system if it's dropped below the normal range.

1 each · Radiator inhibitor (top-up)

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RAD-12Check for leaks, restore heating, and tidy upTurn the heating back on and check both valve connections and the bleed point after 30 minutes for any drips. Gently tighten any damp joint — never overtighten while the pipework is hot. Clear away dust sheets and towels, and take the old radiator to a scrap metal merchant or recycling centre, many of which take them free of charge.

KNOW THE RULES

Before you start: What gas work can I legally do myself?

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