AB-05Fit the right fixing for your wall typeSolid brick or block: drill a 6mm hole to 35mm depth with a masonry bit, insert a 6mm wall plug, and drive in a 40mm screw, leaving a few mm exposed to hang the hook. Plasterboard on timber studs: if the mark lands on a stud, drive a 35mm wood screw straight into its centre, no plug needed; if it misses the stud, use a plasterboard fixing or a spring toggle rated for the frame's weight. Plasterboard on metal studs: never use a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw, as they strip straight through 0.5mm steel — use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle made for metal studs, driven with a screwdriver rather than a drill on hammer action. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: there's an air gap behind the board, so a normal plug just spins in the void — use a long fixing (typically 75-100mm) that passes through the board and gap and bites into the masonry behind. Lath and plaster: start with a bradawl rather than drilling straight in, locate a lath (usually every 25-30mm) by feel, and drive a screw into its centre, or use a lath-and-plaster-rated fixing if you can't find one. Heavier or larger frames on any stud wall are safer fixed into a stud or through to the masonry rather than relying on plasterboard alone.