Lay carpet tiles on a level, clean concrete floor using tackifier adhesive, working outward from the centre for straight lines.
CT-01Clear the room and check the floorEmpty the room and remove skirting-level clutter so you can see the whole floor. Look for cracks, loose bits, or uneven patches in the concrete. Sweep and vacuum thoroughly, as any grit under a tile will show as a lump.
CT-02Check for damp before you startTape a piece of clear polythene sheet, about 300mm square, tightly to the floor and leave it for 24 hours. If the underside is damp or the concrete beneath looks darker, the floor is holding moisture and you should sort that out before laying anything on top. A cheap damp meter gives a quicker reading if you have one.
CT-03Let the tiles acclimatiseLeave the carpet tile boxes unopened in the room for at least 24 hours before laying. This lets them settle to the room's temperature and humidity so they don't shrink or curl afterwards. Keep the room at a normal living temperature during this time, not cold or damp.
CT-04Clean and, if needed, prime the floorOnce you know the floor is dry, wipe it down to remove dust and any oily residue. If the concrete is very dusty or powdery, brush on a floor primer and let it dry fully before continuing, following the tin's drying time. A sound, clean, dry surface is what the adhesive needs to grip.
CT-05Find the centre point and mark guidelinesMeasure the room and mark the midpoint of two opposite walls, then snap a chalk line between them. Do the same across the other pair of walls so the lines cross at the centre of the room at a right angle. This gives you straight, square starting lines rather than working off a wall that may not be straight.
CT-06Dry-lay a test rowLay a row of tiles along one chalk line without any adhesive, working out to both walls. Check how the last tile at each end will need cutting. If it leaves a sliver less than about 50mm wide, shift your starting line half a tile width so the edge cuts look better and are easier to fit.
CT-07Apply tackifier or adhesiveMost carpet tiles use a pressure-sensitive tackifier adhesive rather than a wet glue — check the tile manufacturer's instructions. Roll it onto the floor in the first quarter of the room, following the coverage rate on the tin, and let it go tacky as instructed before laying tiles into it.
CT-08Lay the first full tilesStarting at the centre point, lay tiles along both chalk lines, pressing each one firmly and butting edges tightly together. Work outward in a pyramid shape rather than in single rows, so you're always laying against two finished edges. Check the arrows on the tile backs — most carpet tile ranges want them laid in alternating directions for a chequerboard pile pattern.
CT-09Cut tiles to fit edges and doorwaysFor the last row against each wall, flip an offcut face-down over the last full tile, butt it to the wall, and score along the edge with a utility knife for a perfect fit. Cut tiles from the back where possible for a cleaner edge. Work carefully around door frames and pipes, cutting small cardboard templates first if the shape is awkward.
CT-10Fit a threshold bar at doorwaysWhere the carpet tiles meet a different floor covering, screw or glue down a threshold bar to cover the join and stop the edge lifting. Cut it to width with a hacksaw and fit it snugly across the doorway.
CT-11Tidy up and let it cureVacuum the finished floor to lift any loose fibres from cutting. Keep heavy furniture off the floor for the time stated on the adhesive tin, usually 24 hours, so it sets properly. Dispose of offcuts and empty tins responsibly.