FLOORING

Lay carpet tiles on a timber floor

Prepare your timber floor, plan the layout, then lay and cut carpet tiles for a neat, secure finish.

CT-01Clear the room and check the floorRemove furniture, rugs and any old flooring so you have a clear, empty room. Walk the whole floor in socks to feel for loose boards, soft spots or nail heads standing up. Note any squeaky or bouncy areas — sort these before you lay a single tile.
CT-02Fix loose boards and protruding fixingsScrew down any loose floorboards with 40mm screws driven into the joist below, not just into the board. Punch protruding nail heads below the surface with a nail punch and hammer. Fill gaps wider than 5mm with a flexible wood filler so tiles sit flat and don't rock.
1 each · Wood screws 40mm (box)
1 each · Nail punch
1 each · Flexible wood floor filler
CT-03Clean the floorSweep then vacuum thoroughly, getting into corners and along skirting. Wipe over with a barely damp cloth to lift fine dust. Let the floor dry fully before you carry on — grit or damp under tiles shows through and stops adhesive gripping properly.
CT-04Plan the tile layoutMeasure to find the centre of the room and snap a chalk line between the midpoints of two opposite walls. Dry-lay a row of tiles along this line without adhesive to see how the pattern falls at the edges. If you'd end up with slivers under 100mm at a wall, shift the centre line slightly so cut pieces are more even on both sides.
1 each · Chalk line
1 each · Tape measure
CT-05Lay the first row of tilesApply carpet tile tackifier adhesive along your marked line, following the coverage guide on the tin, or peel the backing if using self-adhesive tiles. Press the first tile firmly into place at the centre point, then work along the line, butting edges tightly together with no gaps. Check the pile direction arrows on the back of each tile — most layouts alternate direction in a checkerboard for a flat, even look.
1 each · Carpet tile tackifier adhesive
20 each · Carpet tiles (50x50cm)
CT-06Lay the remaining tilesWork outward from the first row in both directions, keeping edges tight and squares aligned. Kneel on a knee pad or offcut to protect your knees and avoid marking finished tiles. Check every few tiles with a straightedge that rows stay square as you go.
1 each · Knee pad
CT-07Cut tiles to fit edges and doorwaysFor the last row against a wall, flip an offcut tile face-down, butt it to the wall, mark the overlap, and cut with a sharp utility knife against a straightedge. Around door frames or pipes, cut a cardboard template first, then transfer the shape to the tile. Change the utility knife blade often — a blunt blade tears the pile instead of cutting it cleanly.
1 each · Utility knife blades (pack)
1 each · Straightedge
1 each · Cardboard for templates
CT-08Fit a threshold stripAt doorways, fit a threshold strip to cover the join between the carpet tiles and the next room's flooring. Cut it to width with a hacksaw and fix it down through the pre-drilled holes with the screws supplied.
1 each · Threshold strip
CT-09Tidy up and inspectVacuum the finished floor to lift loose fibres and any adhesive crumbs. Check every tile is flat and fully stuck down, pressing any curled corners back into place. Dispose of packaging and offcuts, and keep two or three spare tiles aside for future repairs.

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides