Plan, prep and lay rubber flooring in a garage or gym, cutting it to fit and bedding it down properly.
RF-01Measure the room and work out how much flooring you needMeasure length and width in mm, sketch a rough plan, and add 10% extra for waste and cutting mistakes. Note any doorways, pipes, or fixed obstacles you'll need to cut around. Check whether your flooring comes as interlocking tiles or as rolls — this changes how you lay it later.
RF-02Check the floor is sound, dry and cleanThe concrete should be flat, with no crumbling edges, deep cracks or standing damp. If you're not sure whether the base is dry, tape a small sheet of clear plastic to the floor overnight — condensation underneath means it's still damp and needs more time or a damp-proof membrane first. Sweep and vacuum thoroughly; any grit left under the flooring will show through as lumps.
RF-03Degrease the floor if it's a garageGarage floors often have oil or tyre residue that stops flooring gripping properly. Scrub with a concrete degreaser, rinse with clean water, and let it dry fully — this can take a full day. Skip this step for a clean gym or utility floor.
RF-04Let the flooring acclimatiseBring the rolls or tiles into the room and leave them flat for 24-48 hours before laying. Rubber expands and contracts with temperature, so laying it cold or straight from a cold van can cause gaps or bulges later. Keep the room at a steady temperature during this time.
RF-05Find your straightest wall and dry-lay the first rowMost rooms aren't perfectly square, so pick the longest, straightest wall as your starting line rather than assuming a corner is true. Lay the first row of tiles or the first roll dry, without adhesive, and check it sits flush along the wall. Mark a chalk or pencil line to keep the rest of the job straight.
RF-06Cut tiles or rolls to fit edges and obstaclesUse a sharp utility knife and a metal straightedge to trim pieces along walls, door frames and around pipes. Cut from the back where possible so any rough edge is hidden underneath. Wear a dust mask if you're cutting a lot — rubber dust is unpleasant to breathe in.
RF-07Lay the flooring row by rowFor interlocking tiles, push the tabs firmly together and check each row is square before moving on. For rolled rubber, unroll one length at a time, butt the edges tight against the previous piece, and avoid trapping air or grit underneath. Work away from your starting wall towards the door, so you don't box yourself into a corner.
RF-08Bond down edges and joinsMost rubber flooring floats freely in the middle of the room, but the perimeter and any seams near doorways need securing so they don't lift or curl. Run double-sided flooring tape along the wall edges and any joins that will see heavy foot traffic. For rolled rubber in a busy gym, a full contact adhesive gives a more permanent bond.
RF-09Fit a threshold strip at the doorwayUse a self-adhesive metal or rubber threshold strip to cover the join between the new flooring and whatever's in the next room. Press it down firmly along its full length so there's no lip to trip on. This avoids drilling into the floor at all.
RF-10Roll the floor to bed it downGo over the whole floor with a flooring roller, working from the centre outwards, to press out any trapped air and help the adhesive grip. A hire shop will rent one by the day if you don't own one. Pay extra attention to seams and edges.
RF-11Leave it to settle before useKeep the room ventilated and avoid heavy foot traffic, dragging equipment, or parking a car on it for at least 24 hours if you've used adhesive or tape. This gives everything time to bond properly. Check adhesive packaging for its specific curing time, as this varies by product.
RF-12Clear up and check the finished floorSweep up any offcuts and rubber dust, and dispose of old adhesive tubes or degreaser bottles safely. Walk the whole floor to check for lifting edges, gaps, or trip hazards at the threshold. Sort out any loose bits now, before the room is back in full use.