HANGING & WALL MOUNTING

Mount a fixed or tilting TV bracket on a metal stud wall

Mount a TV bracket safely, checking what's behind your wall and using the right fixings before you drill.

TV-01Check the TV weight and bracket ratingFind your TV's VESA hole pattern (usually printed in the manual, e.g. 400x400mm) and its weight. Match this to a bracket rated for at least that weight, plus a safety margin. A fixed or tilting bracket puts less strain on the wall than a full-motion arm, but the wall behind it still has to take the full weight.
1 each · TV bracket (fixed or tilting)
1 each · Tape measure
TV-02Work out what your wall is actually made ofRun a stud or cable detector across the wall. A steady line of hits every 300mm or 600mm means a stud wall — tap between the hits, and a hollow sound with no give means plasterboard between the studs. Drill a small pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot: fine grey swarf means a metal stud, pale wood dust means timber. If the wall sounds solid all over with no hollow patches, it's likely brick or block, or dot-and-dab (solid-sounding near the edges, hollow in the middle). If it flexes slightly and sounds different from modern plasterboard, it could be lath and plaster — old timber laths under a plaster skim, common in pre-1930s houses.
1 each · Stud and cable detector
1 each · Small magnet or magnet-on-string
TV-03Find your stopcock and consumer unit before you drill anythingCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the 'safe zones' — a detector helps but misses deep cables, cables in metal conduit, and anything behind metal-backed plasterboard. A metal stud frame can also confuse cheap detectors. Find your stopcock now (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what's behind the wall, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.
TV-04Find and mark the stud positionsUse the detector to mark both edges of each metal stud in the fixing area with masking tape, then find the centre of each one. Metal studs are usually spaced at 300mm or 600mm centres. Check your bracket's fixing holes line up with at least two studs — if they don't, you'll need a pattress board (next step) rather than trying to fix off-centre.
1 roll · Masking tape
1 each · Pencil
TV-05Decide if you need a noggin or pattress boardA metal stud on its own will not safely hold a TV bracket, especially a tilting one that pulls away from the wall as you angle it. If your bracket's fixing holes don't land on solid stud, or the TV is heavier than a small bedroom set, fit a timber noggin or plywood pattress board across at least two studs first. This spreads the load properly instead of relying on the thin plasterboard alone.
TV-06Fit a plywood pattress between the studsCut a section of plasterboard away between two studs to expose the cavity, sized to fit an 18mm plywood pattress roughly 400mm x 300mm. Screw the pattress to the metal studs using self-drilling metal-stud screws at each end, driven straight and not overtightened so they don't strip the thin steel. Patch the plasterboard around it with an offcut and finish with joint filler, ready to take your bracket fixings once dry.
1 each · 18mm exterior plywood offcut
8 each · Self-drilling metal-stud screws (25mm)
1 each · Plasterboard offcut for patching
1 tub · Joint filler
TV-07Mark and level the bracket positionHold the bracket at your chosen height and mark the top fixing holes lightly in pencil. Use a spirit level along the top edge before marking the rest, checking it's level rather than just 'square to the floor', since floors are rarely level. Double-check the marks line up with your stud or pattress positions from earlier.
1 each · Spirit level
TV-08Drill and fix the bracket to the wallBefore drilling, expect a cable or pipe to be there and drill slowly, stopping the moment you feel any resistance change or smell burning. Into a plywood pattress or timber noggin, drill a 3mm pilot hole and use wood screws at least 50mm long driven into the centre of the timber. Fixing straight into plasterboard between studs (light bracket, small TV only) needs a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the TV's weight — never a plain plastic plug, and never an ordinary wood screw into bare metal stud, as it will strip straight through the 0.5mm steel.
6 each · Wood screws (50mm)
4 each · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchors (rated for load)
1 each · Drill with 3mm and 6mm bits
TV-09Attach the mounting plate to the TVLay the TV screen-down on a soft blanket or towel on a table. Bolt the bracket's plate to the VESA holes on the back of the TV using the bolts supplied, adding spacers if the manual calls for them. Tighten firmly by hand — don't overtighten, as this can crack the TV's rear casing.
1 each · Soft blanket or moving blanket
1 set · VESA mounting bolts (supplied with bracket)
TV-10Lift the TV onto the wall bracketWith a second person if the TV is large, lift it and hook the mounting plate onto the wall bracket's arms. Check the manufacturer's locking screws or clips are engaged so it can't be lifted straight back off. Gently test the tilt or angle if fitted, and check the TV sits level.
TV-11Tidy cables and finish upRoute power and HDMI cables down behind the TV using cable clips or a plastic trunking channel, keeping them away from the fixing points. Sweep up any dust or plasterboard debris and vacuum the area. Give the TV a firm push test from the side before you consider the job finished — it should not move at the wall.
1 pack · Cable clips or trunking channel

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