HANGING & WALL MOUNTING

Put up a peg rail on a timber stud wall

Fit a sturdy peg rail into stud wall timber, checking safety and level, from marking to final load test.

PR-01Plan the height and mark a level lineDecide where the top of the rail should sit — 1050mm to 1200mm from the floor works well for a hallway or utility rail. Mark this point with a pencil, then use a spirit level to draw a level line the full length of your rail. Hold the rail against the line to check peg spacing looks right before you commit to any fixings.
1 each · Pencil
1 each · Spirit level (600mm)
1 each · Tape measure
PR-02Confirm you have timber studs, not metalRun a stud detector or magnet along the wall to find the studs, and check the reading — metal studs give a steady pull along a continuous strip, not just at scattered screw-head points. Drill a small 2mm test hole at one marked stud centre: pale timber dust means timber, grey metallic swarf means metal. If you find metal studs, stop here — you'll need metal-stud fixings and toggle anchors instead of the wood screws used in the rest of this guide.
1 each · Stud detector
1 each · Drill
1 each · 2mm drill bit
PR-03Mark stud centres and check for cables and pipes before drillingMark the centre of each stud along your level line — studs are usually 400mm or 600mm apart. Sweep the detector over each marked point again, but treat it as a guide, not a guarantee — it can miss cables that are deep, in conduit, or outside the usual safe zones. Find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns, so you can shut off water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what's behind the wall, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit and turn off the water at the stopcock before you drill.
1 each · Stud detector
1 each · Pencil
PR-04Drill pilot holes into the stud centresFit a 3mm pilot bit and drill about 40mm deep into the centre of each marked stud, keeping the drill level and square to the wall. A pilot hole stops the timber splitting and makes driving the screw much easier. Skip this step only where a fixing point falls between studs — that gets a toggle anchor instead in the next step.
1 each · Drill
1 each · 3mm pilot drill bit
PR-05Fit a toggle anchor for any point that falls between studsIf your rail is longer than the gap between two studs, or a peg will carry real weight — coats, bags — with no stud behind it, use a toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for that load in the plasterboard between the studs. Drill the hole size stated on the packet, commonly 10mm for a spring toggle, push the toggle through, and tighten until it sits flush. Don't use a plain plastic wall plug here — in plasterboard alone it will pull straight out under load.
2 each · Spring toggle or hollow-wall anchor (rated fixing)
1 each · 10mm drill bit
PR-06Screw the rail to the wallHold the rail against your level line and drive a 4mm x 50mm wood screw into each stud pilot hole, checking with the spirit level as you go. Add screws through any toggle fixings between studs. Don't fully tighten the first screw until you've confirmed the rail is still level and straight.
6 each · Wood screws 4mm x 50mm
1 each · Drill/driver
PR-07Fit the pegs or hooksScrew or slot each peg into the rail's own fixing holes, spacing them evenly along the length. Tighten firmly by hand, but don't overtighten wooden pegs — they can crack under too much force.
1 each · Peg rail with pegs (600-900mm)
1 each · Screwdriver
PR-08Check, load test and tidy upPull gently on each peg to check the rail is firmly fixed and doesn't flex away from the wall. Wipe down the wall and vacuum any drill dust from the floor and skirting. Hang light items first and check nothing shifts before loading the rail fully.
1 each · Cloth
1 each · Vacuum cleaner

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides