PR-03Mark and drill the fixing holes for your wall typeHold the rail on the level line and mark each screw position — most peg rails need three fixings spaced evenly along their length. For dot-and-dab, drill through the plasterboard and the adhesive dab void into the solid masonry behind, using a 7mm masonry bit to a depth of at least 65-75mm so the fixing reaches sound brick or block, not just the dab. On solid brick or block with no void, drill to the plug's length plus 5mm with the same bit. On a timber stud wall, drill a 3mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud — timber dust confirms you're in the right spot, and the screw goes straight in with no plug. On a metal stud wall, a magnet or the run of screw heads under paint will find the steel track; a pilot hole giving fine grey swarf confirms it, and you need a self-drilling metal-stud fixing, never a plain wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel. Metal stud track holds light coat weight reasonably well, but for anything that pulls hard on the wall, fix into a noggin between the studs or through to the masonry behind instead. On lath and plaster, drill slowly at low speed to avoid cracking the old plaster, aiming for the timber lath or a joist behind it.