HANGING & WALL MOUNTING

Put up a peg rail on a lath and plaster wall

Fit a sturdy peg rail at the right height, finding solid fixings behind the wall before you drill.

PR-01Plan the rail position and gather your kitDecide the height and length of the rail. A hallway coat rail usually sits at 1500-1650mm from the floor; go lower for children's coats. Mark a rough centre line in pencil and lay out your tools and a dust sheet before you start.
1 each · Wooden peg rail with pre-drilled fixing holes (approx 900mm, 5 hooks)
1 each · Dust sheet
1 each · Tape measure (5m)
1 each · Spirit level (600mm)
PR-02Check for pipes and cables, and find your stopcockCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just near sockets. Sweep a cable and pipe detector slowly over the whole fixing area, but still assume something could be there - detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, and anything behind metal-backed plasterboard. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns fully so you can shut off water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.
1 each · Cable and pipe detector
PR-03Mark a level line for the railHold the rail at your chosen height and use the spirit level to draw a horizontal pencil line across the full length. Mark where each screw hole in the rail will land. Keep the line at least 40mm clear of corners or door frames so you have room to hit solid timber.
1 each · Pencil
PR-04Work out what's really behind the plasterLath and plaster is old lime plaster spread over thin timber laths, usually nailed to studs or joists roughly 400-600mm apart. Tap along your line - a dull, slightly springy sound means you're between laths, a firmer sound usually means you're over timber behind. Drill a small 2-3mm test hole at each fixing point: fine white lime dust with tiny splinters means lath only, dry timber dust with solid resistance means you've found the stud - that's your best fixing point. If the test hole brings out brick or block dust, you actually have solid masonry behind the old plaster. On a partition wall it's occasionally plasterboard on timber or metal studs instead - a magnet dragged along the line will stick over screw heads on a timber stud, and a fine grey metallic dust from the test hole (not timber dust) points to a metal stud frame.
1 each · 3mm drill bit
PR-05Choose the right fixing for your wallA peg rail carries real weight and gets pulled away from the wall, so always fix into something solid, never plaster alone. Over true lath and plaster, drive a 60-75mm wood screw through a pilot hole into the timber stud or joist behind the laths wherever you can; where none lines up, use a screw-in spring toggle rated for at least 5kg per point. If the wall turns out to be solid brick or block, drill with a 7mm masonry bit to 40mm depth, fit a wall plug, and use a 50-60mm screw. Into plasterboard on timber studs, a plain 40mm wood screw into the centre of the stud is enough - no plug needed. Into plasterboard on metal studs, never use a plain wall plug or wood screw, as they strip straight through 0.5mm steel; use a self-drilling metal-stud anchor or toggle rated for the load, and if the rail will be pulled hard by coats or bags, have a timber noggin or pattress fitted between the studs first, or fix through to masonry behind. Into dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a long fixing (75-90mm) that passes through the board and air gap to grip the masonry behind, not just the plasterboard face.
1 pack · Wood screws, 60-75mm (pack of 10)
1 pack · Spring toggle fixings (pack of 4)
1 pack · Wall plugs, general purpose (pack)
1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud anchors (pack of 4)
1 pack · Long fixings for dot-and-dab, 75-90mm (pack of 4)
PR-06Drill and fit the fixingsDrill each pilot or masonry hole at your marked points, keeping the drill level and square to the wall. Insert plugs or toggles as needed, then hold the rail against the line and drive the screws in, checking with the spirit level as you go. Leave the first screw slightly loose until the rail is level and every other screw is started.
1 each · Power drill
1 each · Screwdriver bit set
PR-07Check it's secure and tidy upGive the rail a firm downward and outward tug at each fixing point before hanging anything heavy on it. Vacuum up any plaster or lime dust straight away, as old lath and plaster dust is fine and can irritate the throat. Fill any stray test holes with filler, sand smooth once dry, and touch up with paint if needed.
1 each · Multi-purpose filler, small tub
1 sheet · Fine sandpaper

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